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MG TD TF 1500 - TF 1500 Indicator dash light problem
|Hi, We recently had an auto electrician put in a plastic flasher unit in our TF whilst I ordered a tin canister flasher unit. The tin canister flasher unit was purchased from Mini Sports in South Australia. I had to get slightly larger gauge screws to secure the terminals to what the original tin flasher unit had. I have now switched the plastic flasher unit out and installed the new tin canister, following the PXL terminals. The indicators are working, but the green dash light stays on permanently when the ignition is on. The dash light flashes and it clicks when the indicators are on, but the dash light doesn't go out. Can anyone give me some guidance on why this is happening? |
It is probably just a dud-like 99% of them. Send it back to them.
|There is a difference between pos and neg earth|
try swapping the wiring on the X and L
|Thanks William. I will give that a try and see if it fixes it. I will let you know.|
I tried swapping over the X & L wiring, but then the indicators didn't work at all, albeit the dash light stayed on. I am wondering if the flasher unit which was for a mini and not an MG is the problem? It looks the same, but maybe the internals are not compatible. Any other ideas?
|Probably the wrong can then|
So the plastic one worked ok--?--If it did I'd find the part no. on it and see if (Mini Sports)or whoever can match a metal one up to it-or if it's doable, slide it it the metal case
The Lucas SFB105 can is the one you need.
Try the Tridon HD13 Flasher Unit from SuperCheap Auto.
I've used it on my car with a combination of LED and incandescent globes.
Specs are: Tin can (black), 3-pin type, not polarity sensitive, not load sensitive (can be used with LED and/or incandescent bulbs), not temperature sensitive, 11-15 volts DC.
You may wish to look at it first, to see if you can easily connect to the pins.
Also view on this site;
On second thoughts, the HD13 may be in a black plastic housing, not metal. I'll have to have a look under the dash tomorrow. It is round, like the metal types.
(Of course,you could always paint it silver!)
Still worth consideration though.
I had a similar problem and found out that running LEDs in the tail lights with conventional incandescent bulbs up front will require a "universal" flasher unit that is capable of handling differing resistance. I can get the part number for you if this is the case.
|Thanks all for your guidance. I purchased a new flasher unit from MG Sales (aluminium canister type) and it works perfectly. Looks like the one I bought from Mini Sports was either not compatible or faulty. All working now. Thank you|
I'm just curious (interloper, 1973 midget owner), why don't you also have LEDs on the front indicators as there seems to be less problems thrown up when LEDs are used in full sets (including perhaps the dash tell-tale light(s).
A point to bear in mind, not that it'd bother me, as Paul Hunt always points out because of the resistance thing (yes, I'm not very technical) with LEDs you don't get the warning with the dash tell-tale(s) if one of the indicators lights isn't working.
|I'm having a similar problem. For a Christmas present I gave Lazarus ('52TD) a set of tail/brake light LEDs, the L471's that are sold by Abingdon Spares. Been through a bunch of puzzles in trying to get an all LED system to work 'like it should'. If I keep the light bulbs in the front lamps I can readily get the front and rear to flash with no problems. However, if I install a set of white/amber LEDs in the front lamps I cannot get the flasher to operate when the parking lights are on. I've tried a number of flashers, the latest of which is a NAPA EL13. I've tried shunt 1kohm resistors, I've tried diodes. Nothing works.
The L471 circuit boards are designed so that all of the LEDs are illuminated when the car's lights are on. When the brake lights are wanted, the LEDs go to a higher light level. Anybody else seen this? Bud
|In my Y Tourer, I am using LEDs in the indicator lights and have a 3 pin LED flasher can/relay.
My car originally had a indicator stem (with a small globe at end), but I have replaced this with a steering wheel trafficator dial.
Although everything worked OK with the indicator stem, when I transferred wiring to the trafficator, the indicators flashed too fast and the small LED warning light (on the aux. dash) did not come on, but the fitted buzzer sounded.
When I connect my test lamp in parallel with the buzzer/warning light circuit, the indicator flashing speed reduced to normal, but the test light, nor the warning lamp glowed.
I fitted a 10w 18ohm resistor into the circuit to slow down the flasher speed and now everything is back to normal.
|Spoted this in the LED lights and blinkers thread |
might be worth a try-------------
"All you need to do to restore the function of the dash indicator light is to move its connection to the "L" post on the flasher instead of the "P" post. You likely have a electronic flasher with the "+", "-", and "L" terminals and not the older "P" post. so just move the wire from the dash light to the "L" post instead."
|For what it is worth
The only electronic flasher unit that worked correctly on my TD 1953 was the Lightzupp LFM 3PG ( for positive ground)I believe they do one as well for neg ground. I did try 3 others and they did not work.
I replaced the STD incandescent system already on the car since the rebuild in 1972. Kept the relay unit and only changed the bulbs for LED's and the flasher unit for an electronic one as there is less current being used.
The LFM 3PG flasher cost around $18 US and solved a bunch of issues I was having. The center P terminal is for the dash light and I still have an incandescent bulb there but LED's on the 4 corners. I used the Abingdon Spares dual color front LED bulbs and the STD LED rears.
Well worth the try for $18 bucks. Others have also found this microprocessor controlled unit to work just fine.
This thread was discussed between 23/12/2018 and 06/01/2019
MG TD TF 1500 index
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