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MG TD TF 1500 - TF Axle Nut Sizes
Hi All, This pertains to my broken axle thread. I'm getting together the parts and tools to change the axle. Can anyone tell me what socket sizes I'll need for the original BSF axle nut, and for the replacement SAE axle nut (I'm getting the Moss replacement axle and SAE nut from Little British Car Co. - can't say enough good things about Jeff Zorn and his company!)? Thanks in advance. And thanks to Steve Wincze for the info' on the axle tool. Greg |
Greg Van Hook |
Size for old BSF nut: one large pipe wrench with slip-over the handle pipe extension. I use a NAPA NH1242, 3/4 drive with adaptor 1-5/16 socket for the new nuts. Make sure you change the unbroken axle too, unless already done! |
George Butz |
George, Thanks for the advice. Might be halucinating, but, I seem to remember that the nut is way inside the splined hub (knock-off wheels). How can I get a pipe wrench on it? Greg |
Greg Van Hook |
Greg - Starting with the late TD, the rear axle fasteners are all SAE. The original nut on your TF should be either 1 1/4 (size on my TD) or the 1 5/16" that George quotes. Good luck - Dave |
David DuBois |
Oops. Forgot you had wire wheels. |
George Butz |
OK, I guess the wire wheel hub makes a big difference. Sorry, I didn't make that clear, George. And, it sounds like it would be foolish to change only one axle. Thanks, David. My sockets stop at 1-1/8 (a deep socket specially purchased for the TC master cylinder nut), and they are so expensive, I want to make sure I get the right size. Looks like I'll only need the SAE, anyway, for the old and new axle. I have some more questions regarding the axle replacement process if everyone will indulge me: 1) If I split the rear end at the differential housing, will the differential stay together or will it all come spilling out in a pile of gears? 2) Do I need a puller to remove the hub? 3) Can the hub and axle be removed together (as on the TC)? Actually, according to the parts diagrams, it looks like there's a lip on the axle just inside the bearing, so it looks like the hub must come off, then the bearing/oil seal, then the axle. Is that right? 4) Do I need the slide hammer tool to extract the axles as shown in the manuals? Thanks again for your collective expertise. Greg |
Greg Van Hook |
Greg - I just went down and pulled the cotter pin out of the nut on My TD (Late TD) rear axle to determine the socket size that fits. On mine it is 1 1/4". You should not need a hub puller to get the hub off of the axle (the critical phrase is "should not"), just work it back and forth from the top and bottom. Splitting the differential housing does not result in a pile of gears on the ground (they stay in the housing), but it does result in a puddle of gear lube on the ground, so use a catch pan. Unlike the TC, the TD & TF hub and axle do not come out together. It is necessary to remove the hub to gain access to the outer bearing retainer for removal. The times that I have removed the axle shafts, I didn't need a slide hammer to get them out, but I don't recall how I got the bearing out of the housing unless it stayed in the retainer when that was removed (actually, this would be a good excuse to get a slide hammer - they really come in handy for any number of things). Finally, the only time I got involved in replacing a broken axle, was to help a friend. I know it has been written that the axle and broken stub can be removed without seperating the axle housings, but my friend and I both felt more comfortable taking everything apart to insure that no small shard of the axle shaft was left lurking inside the housing to later become entangled with the differential gears. Good luck - Dave |
David DuBois |
David, Thanks for taking the measurement and all of your info'. I was thinking today (when I was supposed to be working) - if the axle is broken, what happens when I go to unthread the axle nut? Won't the axle just sort of free-wheel? In that case, would I then remove the four bolts around the bearing housing, and pull out the broken axle and splined hub together? Greg |
Greg Van Hook |
Leave the wheel on, car on the ground with brake on tightly, and loosen the nut. I don't think you can remove the 4 bolts with the hub/drum on. |
George Butz |
Thanks George, That was way too simple for me to have figured out! Greg |
Greg Van Hook |
This thread was discussed between 11/01/2003 and 14/01/2003
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