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MG TD TF 1500 - tf brake master cylinder
|what is the easiest way to remove the brake master cylinder on an 1954 tf?|
|I don't really know TFs, but I expect that RHD or LHD might make a big difference. Bud|
simple, disconnect the brake pipe, remove 2 holding down bolts. The pushrod remains in place with the boot.
When refitting, charge and bleed M/C before fitting as it saves a lot of air entering the system.The foot valve will prevent fluid leaking out.Before fitting seals check that the 2 holes(see WSM)areclear
Also if you are fitting new seals make sure the piston returns to the circlip (many times) before refitting.
As there are some rogue repair kits around.
|thanks for your help ;Does that mean I dont need to disconnect it from or remove the brake pedal, the pushrod just pulls out and it is easily replaced?some of the books say you need to disconnect it at the master cylinder fork and that seems tricky. It is RHD.|
|Undo the outer lock nut on the brake pipe before undoing the nut directly connected to the master cylinder. |
There is a return spring to the pedal, which can be removed and returned with needle nosed pliers; fiddly.
Overall get the car as high up off the ground as possible, there is not much wriggle room to access the bolts and break pedal part of the set up. Note the position of the lock nut on the push rod after removal and try to get as close to that position on return. Check that the pedal free play of 0.5in is right before connecting up the pipework.
|Bently says "disconnect the brake pedal return spring from the frame,lift out brake pedal complete with push rod,rubber boot and pedal return spring when master cylinder is easily removed." I am apprehensive about doing this as it might not be easily put back and even though I have replaced all other brake parts I might leave master cylinder as it is .|
|I just finished replacing a RHD TD m/c, and decided to replace the bushings and shaft at the same time. I also drilled and tapped the new pedal shaft to lubricate the bushings in the future. The bushings in the frame were still OK.|
If you can rock your brake or clutch pedal side-to-side, you might want to think about removing the pedals and replacing the pedal bushings. Since I finished it yesterday, I can help walk you through the job.
|Thanks Tom,I will have another look at it and if I can pluck up the courage and have a go will get back to you to take up the offer.|
|If you have to remove the brake pedal it is the worst job imaginable. You need to remove the shaft that supports both the brake and clutch pedals but this will probably be seized in the chassis. The only way I could budge mine was to drill it out - fortunately I had a bare chassis and how anyone can do the job with the body on, and engine in, I just dont know. |
|Is a RHD master cylinder mount just a mirror image of a LHD? Bud|
|Bud, I think it is completely different. As the clutch pedal is on the left on a RHD car, I think it directly connects to the operating rod to the sump lever, and the pivot is stationary. Brake pivots also. George|
|George is quite right. The RHD pedal shaft is a straight shaft (undrilled) with no arm, supported only on the outside of the frame, and the clutch and brake pedals pivot on the shaft. Pedal shaft, frame bushings and pedal bushings (2) are all that there is.|
the pushrod stays in place, it is NOT fastened to the M/C. It is awkward to get the boot back in place but not impossible.
It is very awkward to replace the split pin if you remove the pushrod. On RH drive cars the brake lever is BEHIND the clutch.
I have done a clutch/brake lever o/haul on a friends LHD TD and I a very sorry we inflicted this on you all. Mind if you drove on the correct side there would be no problem.
Ray TF 2884
It is NOT necessary to remove the floorboards as shown in the WSM.
|My original shaft wasn't hardened so I made up a new one from a piece of 3/4" bar which was only a couple of pounds from an online model engineering suppliers. I didn't bother with circlip grooves - I simply cross drilled and use split pins. I did, however, drill and tap two blind holes in each end so the shaft can be jacked out if it ever needs to be remove again. Maybe of interest the model engineering supplier has the small, round head, brass screws used to attach the chassis plates to the fire wall.|
|Have had a thorough look and cant find any brake pedal spring and assume it has fallen off;where is it attached to the body ? I can see it is best toleave the pushrod in place but concerned re putting it back and especially the boot;also there is a plate bolted on the side with 4 nuts ,is it wise to remove this for better access?|
|The plate (held on with 3 bolts and a nut) is the pedal shaft inspection plate, and comes right off for improved (?) access.|
The pedal return spring attaches to a small loop at the front center bottom of the pedal box. The spring does come off and lies on the bottom of the pedal box with the grease and muck, or has been entirely left off by the DPO.
With the pedal blocked in the full down position there is enough room to pull the new boot over the m/c nose with a pair of needle-nose pliers, before the m/c is bolted in place.
|The first answer that popped into my head regarding the question what is the easiest way to remove a tf master cylinder was, "have someone else do it"...but that is probably not as helpful an answer as others posted here..lol. Good luck. Regards, tom|
This thread was discussed between 29/08/2013 and 31/08/2013
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