MG-Cars.net

Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.

Recommendations

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - TF Carb to Carb Fuel Line

I just got my TF 1 1/4" carbs back from rebuilding and am having trouble fitting the s/s flex carb to carb fuel line. The fitting that screws onto the rear carb banjo fitting is contacting the dash pot causing the line to not line up with the banjo fitting thus not being able to screw on. I removed the dash pot screwed the line onto the banjo fitting but was unable to fit the dash pot back on. Whats up with that?
Why is it that the simple things cause problems and delays???
L Staller

Sounds like you need to loosen the bolt at the bottom of the float bowl arm, where it attaches to the bottom of the carburetor and rotate the float bowl a bit toward the engine to get more room for the flex hose. Cheers - Dave
D W DuBois

Sounds like you also need a different set of carbs - a TF would have 1-1/2" carbs.

You may also need to loosen the bolt through the center of the lid, to re-orient that to a better position.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

Pictures would be a big help. Might have the line routed wrong, wrong float bowl lid or maybe wrong hose. Might be easy to identify with a picture.
MG LaVerne

Did the 1250s have 1-1/4 carbs or 1-1/2s like the 1500s? PJ
Paul S Jennings

Mr Staller, You might have the wrong cross over line. Here's mine with plenty of clearance. PJ




Paul S Jennings

Here's another view,




Paul S Jennings

All TFs had 1-1/2" carbs.

It occurs to me that the lids on his carbs may be switched. A picture would sure help...

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

Thank you all for your responses to my asinine questions! I should know by now that if the problem is very basic and the solution is not coming to me I should walk away from it, get some sleep and hit it in the morning. So that's what I did. All I had to do was turn the dash pot cap slightly and the fuel line fit onto the banjo. Duh!
I also noticed that the re-builder didn't remove the banjo fittings from either carb. When I tried to remove them for cleaning I found why he didn't do it, they are frozen solid in the cap. I tried a little heat and a bit of energy but they didn't move. I'm careful not apply too much pressure so I don't crack the dash pot lid but I can't budge it. Any suggestions?
I was told by someone a while back that the early 1250 TF's were fitted with 1 1/4" carbs. My car was a Jan 28, 1954 build. Is that not so? Ugh!
Thanks, Lou


L Staller

Here's photo showing how the banjo is on an angle resulting in the fuel line being close to the dash pot. If I was to turn the banjo fitting a bit it would then allow the fuel line fitting to be more vertical, away from the dash pot. If I can just get the banjo bolt loose! Any suggestions on how I can loosen/remove the bolt? Thanks, Lou


L Staller

Loosen the bolt that attaches the Float bowl to the carb body and rotate the float bowl to clear the dash pot.

All TF's had 1 1/2 H4's

You don't have the correct carbs it appears from your pictures.

Your carb rebuilder should have removed the banjo's to clean the screens.
Don Harmer

OK, I'm done for the day which is a smart thing to do! So far I found out the re-builder didn't do what he should have and I found out that they are the incorrect carbs for the car. Oh yea, I also broke a float bowl lid trying to loosen the banjo bolt. Time to leave the car alone for the rest of the day!

I measured the carbs and they are in fact 1 1/4" as is the intake manifold. Looks like the PO bolted on a set of TD carbs and manifold. Tomorrow will be a better 'car' day!
L Staller

It also looks like you are missing the washer that should be on the banjo. Have you put pressure to these from fuel pump yet?
David Sheward 55 TF1500 # 7427

Mr/Mrs Staller,

Somewhere, sometime, someone has removed (read ... 'stolen') the 1½" SUs and replaced them with the 1¼" TD carburettors.

All TFs came from the factory with H4 carbs = 1½".

Your right float bowl should not be up against the firewall as illustrated in your photo. It should be at the right side of the right carburettor. Paul Jennings picture is an excellent example of a neat and correct installation.

I suspect you may have the wrong float bowls. The bowls are both different and are identified by the LID. On the right float bowl, the LID should clearly have a letter 'R'. Similarly the left bowl LID should have the letter 'L' - see pic below.

You can't have the same letter for both bowls or one will end up at an angle. Whilst the carburettors themselves will operate at an angle, the float bowls must be perfectly vertical.

You can buy a new set directly from Burlen with a manifold (which you'll also need) for around £750. You might put out a request on this forum for a recond pair and manifold. Will undoubtedly save you a few bucks!

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.


Gordon A Clark

Dear Mr/Mrs Staller,

My apologies for what is obviously a dumb mistake by me. I thought I was facing the carburettors, and not looking at them from the rear as you have photographed.

Indeed, and exercise in futility !!!

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.
Gordon A Clark

I need a break from my carb dilemma. I either have to replace the broken float bowl lid and leave the 1 1/4" carbs on or pick up a set of 1 1/2" carbs and manifold. I'll give it some thought tomorrow as today was mentally exhausting for an old guy!
L Staller

Lou,

You're only as old as you feel. I'm almost 82 and as you can see, I'm getting used to making 'misteaks'. Will probably make quite a few more.

Carbs not an unsurmountable problem. Hugh Pite might be able to help you. You have the bowls. You only need the carb bodies.

In the meantime, sit back with a good shot of 15 yr-old Dalwhinnie and relax. You can deal with this tomorrow.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.
Gordon A Clark

Gord, thanks for your input and recommendations. Do you know how I can get in touch with Hugh Pite?
L Staller

Hugh Pite - jenntoo@shaw.ca

gac

Gordon A Clark

The TF 1-1/2 carbs (and the TD Mk II models) had short bodies which are difficult to source. Some people have used MGA H4 carburetors, but have had to use a custom air filter assembly to clear the side panel.

Good luck with your search.

Warmly,
dave


Dave Braun

Lou -

Here is a link to SU Carburetter Service Parts List AKD5036. View it online, or download it.
http://www.spridgetguru.com/AKD5036.html

Part numbers for TF carbs #AUC728 are in section SC, pages SC14 trough SC18. Diagrams are on Plates C8 trough C10

It helped me understand the H4 carbs on my TF-1500. Good diagrams. The diagrams and part numbers will show you what you need.

H2 carbs for TDs are not shown. All of the dampers in the diagrams have hex-heads. Your carbs and (I believe TD carbs) have round head dampers. And the neck of your TD suction chambers are taller.

Personally, I feel that your carb rebuilder should have told you that the carbs are not for your TF.

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

Even though they are not correct, is there a reason that the 1/4" carbs won't work on the TF?
J K Barter

Lou -

Gordon mentioned that a PO may have removed the head and original manifold. You may want to check the engine number and casting numbers on the block and head to give you a better picture of the history of the car.

Enter your chassis number "TFxxxx" on this site to see the engine number that was originally installed into your car.
http://www.tregister.org/recall_page.php?req_page=records_home

If your engine number is different, then check the casting number on the block.

Check the head casting number, even if the block is correct.

According to Paddy Willmer, 1250 XPAGs had these casting numbers:

> BLOCK
24146 = Early XPAG
24445 = Changed in 1950
168421 = Changed in 1952
Casting number remained the same with subsequent block changes until the 1466cc XPEG TF-1500, which is casting #AEF117.

> CYLINDER HEAD
22952 = Early head with banana water holes
168422 = Changed in 1952 to round head water holes
168425 = TD Mark II with larger valves
TF-1500 XPEG head = AEF118 (engraved, not cast)

Other BBS members may have better info.

I went through this exercise when I found out that my TF-1500 had the wrong head (22952). I found a correct AEF118 head. I'm happy.

Good luck in your quest.

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

Lou,
unless you are worried about originality stick with the 1 1/4" carbs.
They work well enough on a 1250 and seem to be better at mid throttle in my opinion.

Ray TF 2884 (1 day earlier than yours)
Ray Lee

Lou
If you decide to source H4 carbs for your TF, send me an email. I know a fellow with a TD who might want to buy your 1 1/4 carbs. His TD has wrong carbs.
Also, if you get H4's, I have a set of Vokes TF air cleaners for sale.

Tom
'54 TF
T Norby

For now I'm leaving the 1 1/4" carbs on the car just to run the newly rebuilt engine. I'm many months from finishing the car so there's no rush to secure 1 1/2" carbs.

My problem began with the carb to carb fuel hose contacting the dash pot. I came to find out that I had a incorrect float bowl lid on the left/rear carb. I had 2 right lids which caused the fuel hose connector to be too close to left/rear dash pot. I found a replacement lid for the left/rear carb that has the outlet connection on the left side of the lid, moving the connection and banjo fitting/bolt away from the dash pot. So, the carbs are back together with clean screen filters and the two s/s fuel lines are also mounted, properly. I'm calling this issue closed!

Now to further mix things up, I was told again today by 2 experienced T series owners/restorers that some 1250cc TF's did in fact have 1 1/4" carbs! Here we go again!!!
Lou
L Staller

Hi Lou,
according to the parts list (May 1954) all TF's came with 1 1/2" carbs (AUC 9002/3).
Also only one type of air cleaner ( AEG107/8)
The only change was to move the fuel pump from the bulkhead to the rear chassis at engine # 31536.
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee

Lou - your experienced owners are perhaps less experienced than they think. You should believe what a number of people have written: ALL TF's came with 1-1/2" carbs, without exception.

The TF XPAG engine was a continuation of the XPAG engine fitted to TD/C or Mark II TDs, which was supplied with 1-1/2" carbs and larger valves (among other mods) for more power. The TD/C was, after all, the "Competition" model. The regular TD was supplied with 1-1/4" carbs right up to the end of production, and a PO has put a set of these on your car at some point.

1-1/4" carbs do function perfectly well on your engine, but power will be somewhat reduced.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

OK, I believe what you guys are saying the all TF's came with 1 1/2" carbs. I guess I just wanted to believe the two guys that said some came with 1 1/4" carbs because that's what I have!
The carbs I have are now rebuilt and fitted on the car. I'm going to use them to start the newly rebuild engine then look for the proper replacements.
Thanks again for all your input and help. Lou


L Staller

Contact Joe Curto at http://joecurto.com/ and ask if he can help.

You do see them for sale from time to time on Ebay.
Frank Cronin

Do you have the correct engine for your car?

Check the engine Tag, Should be XPAG/TF/3XXXXX

Also check the number stamped on the block in case the DPO swapped tags.

Verify that your inlet manifold will fit H4's ( 1 1/2 openings)

You may have a TD engine also. which has smaller valves
Don Harmer

Lou
What will you use for air cleaners on your 1 1/4ers?

Tom
'54 TF
T Norby

Very Pretty Lou. Nice job.

Be sure to replace the end cap on your starter.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.
Gordon A Clark

Do you have washers under the cylinder head nuts?
mog

Tom, the only air cleaners I've found are a vintage style chrome filter from Moss. They have them for
1 1/4" and 1 1/2" carbs. But I will be looking out for others that will fit at local British car swap meets coming up.

Gord, I'm not familiar with the starter end cap. Can you post a photo of what it looks like so I can look for one? I didn't see it listed anywhere.

mog, I do not have washers under the cylinder head nuts. I didn't see them listed anywhere nor did my car have them. Were they installed on all cars? If so where do I get them?

Thanks to everyone!
L Staller

> WASHERS UNDER CYLINDER HEAD NUTS
Looks like washers were under the cylinder head nuts in the photo that Dave Braun posted.

Washers are not shown under the cylinder head nuts on Plate F "Engine Cylinder Block Components, Etc," of the midget Series "TF" Service Parts List AKD804.

Recent thread about washers under cylinder head nuts:
http://www2.mg-cars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgbbs&access=&mode=archiveth&subject=8&subjectar=8&thread=201409152216115763

I installed a valve cover gasket on my neighbor's TF-1500 that has washers under the nuts yesterday. The washers forced the gasket to be moved about 1/16" or more toward the valve train. The cast aluminum valve cover bearly covered the gasket on the manifold side of the engine.

> STARTER ARMATURE END CAP
The cap is missing from the armature end of my starter, too. Where can I get one?

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

Thanks for that.
mog

Washers under cyl head nuts. Here's a shot of my xpeg head and no washers. The new silicon vc gasket fits perfectly without them. PJ




Paul S Jennings

This thread was discussed between 09/10/2014 and 13/10/2014

MG TD TF 1500 index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG TD TF 1500 BBS is active now.