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MG TD TF 1500 - TF fuel filter ponderings

The saga continues on my newly acquired TF and its shakedown. The carbs were removed last night for a rebuild over the weekend. Doing so revealed that there were no fuel filters in the banjo fittings of the fuel lines to the carbs. At this point, it seems more prudent to forget them (getting parts will take time, and repeated undoing of the fittings to clean and check them means wear and tear on old fittings, and leaks I'm sure) and install a modern, throw away, inline filter, just after the gas tank before the fuel pump, or maybe after the fuel pump. Anyone ever done something similar?
Gene Burgess

Gene - A couple of thoughts on filters. The original ones in the banjo fittings were of questionable value, considering the seating and all. they were probably effective in removing the big chunks. The filter in the fuel pump and at the banjo fittings do nothing to stop the real fine rust particles and if you are getting that sort of thing through the fuel system, it is time to clean and seal the fuel tank. The filters were designed for cars in an era of dirty gas (how often have you seen the sign "filtered gas" in a service station recently? They used to be on all pumps years ago for the simple reason that the gas being supplied was so dirty that it needed filtering. that is no longer the case). Finally, the SU carburetors have such large openings that all but the largest particles will pass straight through without causing any problems.

If having a filter on the fuel system makes you feel more comfortable, then go ahead and add one or get the ones for the banjo fittings (mine have been in place for twenty years and have never needed cleaning), but they probably not needed. If you are going to add an modern, after market filter, make it after the fuel pump rather than before. The modern filters will stop much finer particles than the original filters (including the input filter in the fuel pump) and will therefore clog much faster than the originals. If a filter in the inlet side of the fuel pump clogs, it will cause the pump to stall in a current on condition, which will ultimately cause the swamping resistor in the coil to burn out. When this happens, the only arc suppression circuit in the early pumps is no longer effective and the points will burn much more rapidly.
Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

Gene,
I agree with Dave. Have been running SU's for 35 years with out any filters what so ever and have never had any problems. Would still like to see the pictures of your car. E-MAIL address is dorydd0555@aol.com.
Thanks,

LED
LED DOWNEY

Gene,
I'll second the comments from David.
I had a Mini for many years and ran two filters in line between the tank and the fuel pump.

The first took out the stuff above about 10 micron and the second the finer stuff (down to 3 micron I think from memory but don't quote me on that one.)

Given the small cost to replace them about every six months or so versus the cost of a new pump and whatever else it seemed good value.

Cheers, Pete.
P Thomas

My tank was last removed when the car was painted in the 70's, and generally has a bit of rust and crud in it. For a driver like mine, I put as generic plastic filter in regular black fuel line between the pump and the back carb. It is clear so you can see any crud in it. It has been years since it has been changed. I would ditch the banjo filters, for one thing is is such a pain to get the fiber washers to not leak, I avoid removing them.
George Butz

As my car had been in "barn storage" for 28 years with about 4 gallons of fuel in it, the upper portion was very rusty and the lower portion a bit like varnish. The fuel filter in the tank didn't let any fuel out other then through the very top... Took it off and had it chemically cleaned and power sprayed...then one of the new plastic liquid liners was done. Seems to have worked out beautifully... good bonding and should be good for the duration. Am still adding a filter, but will put it between the pump and carbs.
The whole process was $150.00 CAD (about $1.95 U.S.)... well worth it i think.
g.b.lawson '53TD

Thanks everyone! I pulled the tops off the float bowls when I first got the car (didn't touch the carbs for fear of ignorance leading to destruction = many $) and found a quarter inch of crud in the bottom of each bowl, cleaned it out and left everything else well enough alone, and to the experts. That 's what lead me to thinking about an inline filter, when the 2 in the banjo fittings were discovered missing.
LED, the pics are on the way...again. I sent them 2 days ago, but will do so again right now.
Gene
Gene Burgess

Part of "the deal" on my 2001 re-paint was to clean inside of gas tank. I was told this was done...(it was on the bill so I was charged for it)... having since then dropped a screw into my tank and gone "fishing" for it with a magnet...have my doubts, judging from the amount of rusty crap that came out stuck to my magnet,(along with the "screw" that I did recover). I am glad I decided to install an inline filter after my pump and before my re-built carbs! Under $2.00 investment...better safe than sorry! Lesson learned: if you didn't do it yourself don't assume someone else did just because they charged for it on the bill!
Cheers,
David 55 TF1500 #7427
David Sheward

One question David - How in the hell did you manage to drop a screw into your gas tank? Were you aiming?

If the tank was cleaned in 2001, but not sealed, I am not really suprized that it is already starting to rust. It took about that long for the new, untreated tank to start rusting in our MGB.
Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

Daren't look too deeply into my tank after reading those postings. But normally it is almost full.
John James

This thread was discussed between 10/07/2004 and 13/07/2004

MG TD TF 1500 index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG TD TF 1500 BBS is active now.