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MG TD TF 1500 - TF interior panels photo

Having a rough time with the TF interior panels furnished by Moss. I had the rear panels trimmed of about 5/8" of wood from the rear arch portion to get them to fit without overlapping the door opening.

Does anyone have a photo of the TF rear interior (side) panels where it meets up with the door panel WITH THE DOOR IN THE CLOSED POSITION? I'd like to see how much space is between the rear (side) panel and the door panel with the door closed.

Also, I think the Moss bead trim (welt) for the interior panels is a much larger diameter (3/8") than original, judging from photos I've seen of original cars. Can someone send me an accurate diameter measurement (done with a micrometer) of the interior trim beading?

Thanks for any input. Tyler


Tyler Irwin

Unfortunately this has the door open:

http://www.mg-cars.org.uk/mgtf/mgtf_tf_seats.htm

Not a great picture but slide 44 has what you want.

http://www.mg-cars.org.uk/mgtd/mgtd_carpet.htm
Christopher Couper

The Moss supplied trim installations I've seen here all look like a badly fitting suit unless the vinyl is peeled back & the board trimmed to fit. This does take some time & a fair bit of work to put right. Not only is the bead too large, so too is the hidem, as it should be 1/2" not 5/8". Re the inner core (bead) it's 1/4" plus 2 thicknesses of Rexine. This finishes at just under 5/16". It's for these reasons, as well as the non original colours, that if anyone else is seeking a perfect & original interior, then avoid the Moss kits & do it yourself. Much more pleasing result & a whole lot cheaper! The only difficult bit is sourcing the 1/2" hidem. This can be made in your vinyl by Segal Motor Trimmers in England. Ask for Alicia Parker. Anyhow good luck with it Tyler. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

I made up the plywood backings to fit the car and got an upholsterer to cover them, using my originals as reference. He has fitted the hidem exactly the same distance from the edge. I now find that if I use nails they hit the bent over steel flange. I have resorted to making a small "V" shaped tool from plastic, to open up the hidem, drilling a small hole through the plywood and steel flange and then securing with a no3 countersunk screw. The finished job is fine but a five minute job has turned into a much longer one. Has anyone else had this problem ? My hidem came from Segals and I can post a pic if anyone is interested.


Jan T
J Targosz

I suspect that whoever supplies the panels, some of them will need trimming to fit, as every car is different and they have to cater for them all. My panels came from Collingburn and I had to trim a lot from them over the rear arches. Where possible I used a pneumatic stapler with 16mm staples through the hidem. This worked very well but in a few places I hit metal, so then I drilled a small hole and tapped in a tack.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Sorry to intrude in this thread. I didn't get any interior panels with my car. Is there a site where the dimension of the panels is available for a TD?
Thanks

Tim
TD12524
TW Burchfield

Jan

I used very fine gauge cheese head thru the hidem to secure my panels. This means I can remove the panels at will without compromising their condition. It only takes a few screws at 9 inch centers to secure the panels effectively. No one can identify that I have used this method unless they prise the hidem apart.

Graeme
G Evans

If there is Tim I'd love to know about it! I'm a born & bred DIY guy & the sort of original info you seek is gold in my book. I fully expect to have to drill occasionally in case I do hit metal during assembly, (which is highly unlikely due to my anal nature) so in anticipation I have measured, marked & dealt with those areas where there is likely to be a problem. The edge of the hidem, in a perfect world, sits exactly 1/2" clear of the edge of the trim so add a 1/4" & it ain't brain surgery to determine where there is likely to be a clash! I plan to use small countersunk flat head screws to secure the hidem & trim for two reasons. If I ever have to remove the trim it should be really easy & I hate the puckering I've seen on those installations which results from using a brad gun. The point of hidem is to HIDE it! Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Peter. My MGB rebuild was a piece of cake compared to the TD. The full dimensions and descriptions of every MGB interior panel are readily available online. Let alone the number and variety of fasteners on the TD compared to the B. But I'm having fun anyway. Are used panels something that appear for sale now and then? (BTW if anyone has used and usable panels for recovering I'b be happy to discuss the purchase.)

Tim
TD12524
TW Burchfield

I can understand TC, and to some extent early TD panels having variance in size causing fitment issues. The TF panels should all be similar in shape and size. I can not accept any excuse for panels sold for a TF not fitting.
David
D. Sander

Drawings will not help. It is easy to make up templates directly from the car. The trick is to fit the piping around the rear quarter panel, the door and the footwell panel before doing any measurement. My brother has bought ready made panels and they push the piping too high and had to be trimmed for a good fit. This needs the vinyl to be peeled back and it is easy to stretch it.
Screws in the hidem will secure the panel firmly but will not prevent puckering. The stuff my upolsterer purchased from Segal is made from old fashioned leather cloth rather than vinyl and has no stretch. Heating it has no effect. He achieved a satisfactory finish by using super glue rather than stitches or staples. This secures the full with of the banding and prevents the edges lifting. It is also possible to cut and mitre the top corner on the door panel this is the only way to keep the banding flat.


Jan T
J Targosz

This thread was discussed between 10/07/2015 and 11/07/2015

MG TD TF 1500 index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG TD TF 1500 BBS is active now.