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MG TD TF 1500 - TF rear leaf springs - again.

When I restored the car I also restored the leaf springs. They were quite heavily pitted but when I checked the camber on them it complied with the original specification, so I used them. Now I am finding that I am getting the occasional metallic clang at the back when I go over large bumps and traffic calming humps in the road. So I am wondering if the springs have gone soft over many years use. Time for new springs then as these are so pitted. The mainstream MG parts suppliers have them at a reasonable price, but looking around for alternatives in the UK (and there are several), I find that most are more expensive and they make a point of them being made from British Steel. This makes me wonder if the springs from the mainstream suppliers are made from inferior steel from elsewhere, and that they would be sagging in no time. Anyone have the inside line on this please?
Dave H
Dave Hill

if your springs are making a clanging noise, you have a big problem. It is more likely that a shocker bolt has come loose. The chassis act as a resonator and makes a hell of a noise.
I run TD springs at the rear to stop bottoming out when fuelled and touring loaded.
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee raybar2(at) tiscalidotcodotuk

Thanks Ray, I'll check it out.
Dave H
Dave Hill

DAVE I've got the same problem on the offside of mine. MOT guy suggests it might be a lack of fluid in the shocker. I 've not inspected mine so far but the mechanic cant find any loose arms etc so it seems a reasonable possibility
Eddie
E I Buckley

I don't think I've lost any fluid from the shockers, but will check. I still have a mind to replace the springs sooner rather than later, as I know they are old and pitted. Still looking for recommndations of a UK based supplier please?
Dave H
Dave Hill

Those shocker bolt have to be extremely tight you will find a good few posts on this site.
Ray
Ray Lee raybar2(at) tiscalidotcodotuk

Ok Ray, I checked them this morning and they were tight, but I managed to get another half turn on them with all the strength that I could muster, so thanks for that. A bit of oil on the outside but no sign of significant leakage. I'll take it out for a run this morning and see how it goes. I still have a mind to change the springs over winter though.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Dave, passed the MOT. not sure how stringent it was. But I have investigated the shocker and there was no oil in it. Garage guy suggested I use some of his 'Jack Oil' took a good half cupful via a syringe. Tomorrow I 'll get the car off the ramp and let you know what happens.. the car was on a ramp that lifts the chassis, so the suspension was hanging. Not sure if the piston position is critical when filling.
Eddie
E I Buckley

Jack oil will be fine. I've just blown the core plug under the exhaust manifold for the second time!
Dave H
Dave Hill

Dave, Oil in the damper has sorted out the clunk. Wish other things were as easy to sort .... like Rad Slats!
and core plugs.....Eddie
E I Buckley

This may not last When I refilled my half empty dampers, I found a big sea of blue hydraulic oil on my garage floor shortly after. Dampers are usually empty because they leak due to worn seals. So have a look under the car from time to time.
rgds Mike
Mike Fritsch

Ray,
I am putting TF 2071 back together after it sat in pieces since '79. Assuming everything that came with it was original I rebuilt the leaf springs with new rubbers but it seems they might be from a TD (40" centres and nearly 4.5" camber instead of 42.5" and 2.85"). I can just manage to get them onto the links but the chassis sits way too high, how do you get yours to work?
Regards,
Chris
C I Twidle

Spring supplier in the UK:
Website: www.jones-springs.co.uk

Company: Jones Springs (Engineering) Ltd
Address: Gladstone Street
Darlaston
West Midlands
WS10 8BE
Contact: Mr Carl Jones
Telephone: 0121 5687575
Email: salesjones-springs.co.uk
Jones Springs (Engineering) Ltd

Category: springs
Area scope: west midlands
Lew Palmer

Dave
I purchased another new rear spring for my TD some years ago from Moss. I don't think they are assembled like the originals and have no rubbers between the leaves?
Pretty sure it is made in India? But don't really know.
Is it possible to have your originals reforms and heat treated? For the money, I would have gone that way.

It also sags the same as my original did. Bachelor Lean. I guess I am the thing that has changes over the years. Not the Spring.....lol

Both my rear springs are now replacements. I don't think they keep their original form too long. One is 10 years old the other is new (in 2005?)in the picture.


Rod Jones

Dave
I think John James of totally t types 2 may be getting a batch made.may be a good idea to give him a ring
John
J A Davies

My TF leaf springs are the correct shape, etc., but have deep pits all over. I rebuilt and installed them, but have concerns that over a large bump or pothole a leaf could break, hence the desire to replace them. Those sold by the big mg specialists are much cheaper than those offered by British spring manufacturers in the West Midlands and Sheffield. Its not hard to imagine that the cheaper ones are made in India or the Far East and of lesser quality. I did contact John James last Autumn and asked if he knew of any general interest in making another batch (he uses Brost Forge in London) and he did put a note in TTT2. I've not heard from him since, but will send him a message.
Dave H
Dave Hill

I should also say that I fixed the metallic clang! Nothing to do with the springs or the shockers, it was the prop shaft banging against the innermost fixings for the lap seat belts, when I went round a corner. I cured it by shortening the bolt and fitting a std thickness nut.
Dave H
Dave Hill

When I had my leaf springs rebuilt, the firm made new top leaves and shortened the old ones and the others to get the original lengths for each leaf. Worked quite well.

I mentioned on an earlier thread that I didn't use interleaf pads: I greased the leaves and wrapped the springs in friction tape. That made the rear end very smooth.

David
D A Provan

A local suspension shop has offered a same day service to reduce the TD arching to TF specs. They do it cold. A number of sources suggest that having arching increased to restore to original specs can have a limited lifespan whether done hot or cold. Hopefully this way may stand a little better chance of success.
My knowledge of engineering, and metallurgy in particular, is scant (even rusty) obviously the leaves will have to be deformed past a yield point to maintain the increased radius and a degree of work hardening will result. As this will be spread over the length of the leaves I am hoping there will be minimal risk of causing cracks. I suppose this will depend on the current hardness - time will tell!
C
C I Twidle

This thread was discussed between 15/08/2016 and 31/05/2017

MG TD TF 1500 index

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