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MG TD TF 1500 - TF Smith Heater Installation?

I need some input on installing a Smith round heater in the TF. The firewall appears different than a TD behind the engine, not sure though. It has to be a clean installation. I can fabricate any brackets needed, it's the plumbing that I'm mainly concerned about. Firewall forward is no problem, it's the supply lines coming through the firewall that has me concerned and connections inside. I would like to/need to, address this while the tub is on the stand. Any help and photos would be deeply appreciated. PJ

PS, I've checked the archives, but no luck.
Paul sr

Paul,

I'll be looking at the same problem. I was thinking about using some AN bulkhead fittings and SS flex hose. I'm still not sure the best place to come through the firewall. Media blasting revealed a couple of repairs where holes for heater pipes were hacked through so that may be where I go through again.

Jim



J E Carroll

Yeah Jim I know the feeling. Once the holes are cut, it's all over. I also thought of using the bulkhead fittings, but where to place them is a big question. I have access to a ton of aircraft fittings, but would like something that will go with the period of the car. Tough decision. PJ
Paul sr

I found this heater bulkhead connector and it looks impressive. Now if I find where to place one. PJ




Paul sr

Found out that Triumph used a through firewall mounted heater connection and Moss sells them. If I use them, a Triumph part, will I have to rename the car? LOL! PJ
Paul sr

Ha! One of my first cars I called a Fordsmobilechevrolac due to the '40 Ford body, Olds engine, Cadillac transmission and Chevrolet rear end. I also used an IHC truck combo brake and clutch master cylinder but the name just didn't fit in.

I'll check the Moss catalog for the Triumph fitting.
J E Carroll

Here's the through firewall heater connector from a Triumph TR4. Will it work? It's worth 17 bucks to find out. Oh, I forgot to ad shipping, grin. The one for the TR2/3 is a single unit and two would be needed, not sure if that would be the better way to go. Have to do some more measuring.

Moss unit for a TR4,




Paul sr

Paul,

You may want to use two separate fittings and locate them where you will have the best run location for the plumbing.
I believe form looking at pictures on this forum the TF takeoff for the water feed is on the left side of the engine. The return would go back on the right hand side to get to the rad bottom hose. You may want to consider putting the holes and through the firewall connectors 6ins apart to assist with the hose routing.

Without the holes now - you have the choice of where to place them. There are several solutions to this issue and ways to plumb the heater, in recent threads if memory serves.

Some engine movement will flex what ever hose you decide and needs to be considered.
I have seen single and double firewall SS connectors on this forum in a post but can't find them now :)

Just a thought.

Rod
R D Jones

Paul,

Here are some fitting that my work.

http://www.firstchoicemarine.com/p-17766-seasense-straight-bulkhead-brass-fitting-38-inch-50052380.aspx?gclid=CK6qpqCgvLkCFc19OgodPlMAUA

You should not need rubber grommets with these.
Hole is 5/8"Dia, 3/8" barb for 1/2" hose. Brass.

Rod
R D Jones

Hi Paul:
I have always used 2 pieces of 1/2 in copper pipe about 4 in long. Two 1/2 in holes in the firewall, center the pipes in the holes, attach the heater hoses on the inside and the hoses to the water pump on the engine side, 4 hose clamps and you are away. The water pressure is very low and you do not need barbed or ribbed ends. I have seen this system routed through the foot board preventing drilling the body and keeping the hoses down low and almost out of sight. The longer routing does not affect the amount of heat from the heater. Be creative and keep it simple. :-)
Godspeed in Safety Fast
Jc
John Crawley

Thanks to all, but I think I'll give JCs idea a lot of thought. I like the idea of going under the firewall lip through the floor board.

Rod, I agree on using two fittings verses one double.

Quote>John Crawley, Alberta, Canada
Hi Paul:
I have always used 2 pieces of 1/2 in copper pipe about 4 in long. Two 1/2 in holes in the firewall, center the pipes in the holes, attach the heater hoses on the inside and the hoses to the water pump on the engine side, 4 hose clamps and you are away. The water pressure is very low and you do not need barbed or ribbed ends. I have seen this system routed through the foot board preventing drilling the body and keeping the hoses down low and almost out of sight. The longer routing does not affect the amount of heat from the heater. Be creative and keep it simple. :-)
Godspeed in Safety Fast
Jc<unquote


John, I like your idea and also about the possibility of going below the firewall lip and through the floorboard. I really didn't want to put holes in the firewall, I just welded a plug in and leaded a hole someone put in years back. Thanks for your suggestion, much appreciated. I never gave going below the firewall lip a thought. PJ
Paul sr

Paul, I purchased the Triumph fitting and gasket but my firewall already has two holes and they don't match the fitting so if you decide to go that route mine are free if you want them.

Rich
Richard Taylor TD3983

Richard, Email on it's way! PJ
Paul sr

Ok, reactivating an old post!
As the saying goes, "Better Late Than Ever"! Never publicly thanked Richard Taylor for sending me a new duel through the firewall heater fitting from a Triumph, my bad! It will work perfectly and will be a very neat installation. Thanks Richard!
Will my car feel bad for having a Triumph part on it? I doubt it! Grin. PJ
Paul sr

pj, that is the fitting i used on my car when i did the installation a decade ago. as you said, i makes for a very neat installation. regards, tom
tom peterson

On my TF just below the flasher relay there is a large hole that the temperature gauge capillary fits through. The reason for such a large hole is to take the union that fits to the radiator. When a heater was fitted to my car a small notch was cut into the large hole to form a very unequal '8'. The capillary and connector is first pushed through the large hole and then a small split grommet used to secure the capillary in the small hole. The water pipe then goes through the big hole with another,large, grommet. At the other side of the firewall a new hole for a large grommet has been cut in more or less the same position If anyone has a photo showing a KL heater under the dash I would be extremely greatful Also the position of the fan rehostat.

Jan T
J Targosz

Jan T. Interesting use of the radiator capillary hole. And its connected to the same source too :-)

I really like the arrangements where people feed the hoses back through the sides of the battery box. Since modern batteries are much narrower than the original this is a good solution for today.
Chris Couper

Paul,
I ran hose thru firewall and used grommets. Nice tight fit and no vibration or wear problems.
Mort
PS: Ignore the aluminum plate. It just covers up the mess a DPO made.


Mort Resnicoff (50 TD-Mobius)

From the inside.


Mort Resnicoff (50 TD-Mobius)

This thread was discussed between 07/09/2013 and 28/09/2013

MG TD TF 1500 index

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