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MG TD TF 1500 - this should get a laugh

Is there an easy way to remove the brake pedal? On a serious note, the eng/gearbox is out (52Td) and the brake pedal wobbles from side to side so am almost postive the bushing is shot. Took off the outside plate, looked inside and OMG. That was Tues. and have not been able to go to the workroom since. After searching the archives, found a great thread from D DuBois(thank you) on the removal but still have a couple of questions: how is the clutch pedal loosened and can the pedal assembly be removed without removing the master cyl. I am not looking forward to this but guess it should be done now as opposed to later when all is put back together. Btw the cluth pedal is very solid - appears to have been lubed through the years. As always thanks for your help.

tim

ps: does anyone know how I can change to my address, am actually in Salem Va not DC
tw hager

You either have to remove the clevis pin (cotter pin first) from the end of the brake pedal (nearly impossible), or just remove the MC and leave the clevis/pushrod attached to the pedal. If original, you will likely find the shaft under the brake pedal bushing to be very worn and needing replacement. To remove the clutch pedal, remove the linkage from the "relay arm", remove the circlip outside the frame (by the grease fitting), then remove the nut and pinch bolt from the pedal. Then the shaft w/arm can be wiggled out toward the center of the car. Easier w/o transmission in the way, but still a stinkin' job! George
George Butz

Can't help you with your address, but the trick on the brake pedal (especially in the car with the floorboards in place) is to install the clevis pin and rod to the brake pedal, and then fit the master cylinder to the car, pushing the rod into the boot on the MC. I've done it with and without removing the MC, and it is easier to remove it, IMHO.

The brake pedal floats on the shaft, the clutch pedal is locked to the shaft with a pinch bolt which mates to a radius machined into the shaft. The lack of wobble in the clutch pedal depends on the bushings int he frame.

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

See? I walked away from my desk, handled a couple of items in the shop, and then came back and answered... should have checked to see if someone had. GB III is of course, completely correct (as I am! lol)

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

Tim - If you read my stuff about the pedal box and work in that area, you saw my statement that this is not a job to be undertaken except in VERY extreme cases. The two cases that I can think of that qualify are 1) someone has a gun to your head or 2) you can't drive the car without doing the work (#2 is definitely the most extreme of the two cases). With that in mind you should be properly prepared (mentally) for the rigors of the task. Good luck - Dave
David DuBois

TM,
As indicated , this is one of the most dreaded tasks on a TD !!
To change your address, on the the home page, click on "My Details" in the upper left side,,, enter your password, and change the info

SPW
Steve Wincze

I have changed a few in the past and I find it a piece of cake if the floor board is removed. It is still a challenge but it allows you to clean up the total area much easier. It can all be done from the top[ and is easier if you remove the steering wheel.
Sandy
Sandy Sanders

Thanks to all for the comments and I could use some additional help/suggestions. I am currently into it and boy oh boy but I will survive w/ alcohol but am stuck. I have removed most all items m/c, spring, key etc but while trying to tap out the pedal it seems that the frame bushings are coming out on the inside and I am stuck. The pedal shaft(with the elbow) is outside of the box but cannot get it outand am unable to tap it anymore from the frame side. Any thoughts/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. For now, I sprayed with liquid wrench and will try again in the am. Wish me luck and thanks.

tim
tim

Tim, you are just about there! Did you remove the grease fitting on the end of the shaft?

The clutch pedal clamping bolt must be loosened on the shaft, which it sounds like you've have done if you have the shaft out so far that the 'elbow' (clutch actuating lever) is out of the box.

With grease fitting removed, and plenty of PB Blaster (a solvent for disolving rust which also lubricates) take a deep well socket of a just smaller diameter as the pedal shaft and use that as a drift to tap the shaft out of the chassis (frame), and past the two pedals. You can add a six inch extension as you go to allow you to continue tapping.

You may have to carefully press in some new frame bushings, as well as bring the shaft to its original diameter, and of course replace the bushing in the brake pedal arm which was the original goal of this exercise.

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

At this point I would ask for help from the HEAT WRENCH or blue flame special.Heat up the bushingsand continue to tap it out. You may have to even cut the shaft if all else fails and remove it piecemeal.
Sandy
Sandy Sanders

No matter how you look at it it is a stinker of a job.
Keep saying to your self " they got it together so it does come apart"
I did mine a few years ago and found that getting the Woodruff key back into the slot , then sliding the clutch arm back into place was the most fun.
As I remember the stinking key slot is on the top of the shaft so you have to find a way to set it in down through the floor with long nose pliers and then try to slide the arm over without dislodging the key all the time you are face down with you're head stuck down under the dash and feet sticking up over the gas tank . It took my three day to be able to stand upright again.
Alan

This thread was discussed between 01/12/2006 and 03/12/2006

MG TD TF 1500 index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG TD TF 1500 BBS is active now.