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MG TD TF 1500 - What do these MGTD #'s mean?

I'm thinking about buying a MGTD, where can I find the meanings for the numbers on the cowl plates...one plate has....car no.TD 25799---EXI---XPAG/TDZ/26227, the other plate has 52381 on top and below that is 25108/2653...owner tells me it is a 1953....thanks, Mike.
Mike

Check out http://www.niagarabritishcarclub.org/mgtnumbers/numbers.html

There are two plates on TD's... one has the Car (Chassis) number and Engine number...the other has the body type (22381) and the body numbers (25108/2653) These last have the MG number given to the body and the body's manufacturer number.

It is a '53... if you buy it, please fill in the information on the data base you will find on the above page...that car isn't listed.
gordon lawson - TD 27667

XPAG/TDZ/26227 is /TD2/ The XPAG is the type of engine (1250 cc).
gordon lawson - TD 27667


Mike - I must assume you do not or have not owned a T-series car !! A few words of warning ( california car or nor) Take someone with you who KNOWS T-series inside and out, not just someone who has replaced some chrome on a car. Check to make sure it is a 'matching numbers car' ( buy the way, #25799 was built on or about 19-29 March 53 based on my records). Make sure the side curtains/tools & engine crank are there. If you are not sure about something, ASK someone that know first! tfp
Tom P

Mike,
Good solid info from Tom...take someone that knows these cars with you! You should be able to hook-up with someone from this BBS ....just ask ..friendly, helpfull group of folks here!
As for "learning" about "T" series..IMHO I don't think you can do any better than here: http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgtd/
Christopher Couper has done an excellent job with info on the TD (and sister site on TF). I wish I would have found it "before" I bought one.
You have allready taken the best 1st step,when you found this BBS!
Welcome the the wonderfull world of "T" cars!
Cheers & Best Regards,
David 55 TF1500 #7427
David Sheward

Thanks to all for the cautions...here is what I know from looking at the car and talking to the owner...car has been rewired for 12 volt, still is positive earth, headlights r painted black as is the side of the gas tank, the seats r black tuck and roll, new brake parts including m/c in 1997....the paint is starting to bubble just about all over the body, but it is very straight with no damage..I will have to check about tools and crank, and the top is missing but he has the top metal bows and side curtain pieces...he would like about $6500.00....anything else major that I should look for...it does run nice with no smoke...thanks again for all your help....
Mike

Mike, the tools will most likely not be there. I have not seen one with a set of tools for a long time. Look for rotted wood below the doors. Poke a knife around where the wood should be. Rust is another problem and should be easy to spot by looking from underneath the car. Sounds like a good buy to me without seeing the car. Mine was a basked case and I paid almost that much here for one that had to be completley rebuilt. They are fun cars and once the restoration is done dont require that much work. THe satisfaction of restoring on is great. Have fun with it, and remember, these cars were meant to be driven. Safety Fast.
Tom

Mike,
"Look for rotted wood"...can't tell you just how important that is! Fairly easy cars to work on ...but if the wood needs replacing you are in for a major job! "T" are made from "hand-bashed" metal over an ash wood "backbone". Floorboards not such a big deal (IMHO) ...but if the wood in the body tub is gone...that is an entirely different story and should be one of the most important issues concerning how much you pay for the car!
Cheers,
David 55 TF1500 #7427
David Sheward

Tom, thanks for the additional info...I did look under the fenders for any sign of rust but he put that tar like undercoating on all fenders years ago, my guess is nothing can get through that stuff...wonder if that hurts the value any, I know it is quite a pain to remove.....he did offer to jack it up and let me look underneath, I'll take him up on the offer tomorrow...Also, I went to the site Gordan mentioned but could not figure out what the original color was for this car...thanks again, Mike
Mike

David, as u can tell I don't know the first thing about the TD, have had an MGA and have restored many motor scooters....please tell me more about looking for damaged "tub wood", sounds like one of the most important items to check, Tom suggested checking by the doors, is that the same as the tub area..thanks, Mike
Mike

Mike
The doors on the TD and TF are framed ash covered with sheet metal. Open and close the doors and check for sagging and or loose screws in the door hinges. You should be able to get a look at the lower tub wood by jacking up the car and checking above the frame rail by the running boards...probe for dry rot with a screw driver..what looks solid can be as sturdy as balsa wood so it pays to do a bit of poking here and there. The undercoat probably saved the wings but sould you decide to re paint you will want to take things down to bare metal. The good news is you have discovered this site which can be a source of vast tips and how to do its from friendly folks who have been there and done that. Hope your TD hunt is succesful...T Types are worth the efffort to get running and a joy to drive!
Jeff Payne 54 TF 1250
jeff payne

Hi Mike

If depending on what part of CA you are in, there are a number of clubs and good MG shops throughout CA.

As an FYI, the TD was always 12 volt positive ground.

My TD was also undercoated. It is a good bit of work to remove it. If you plan on a full restoration, removing the undercoating might be accomplished at that time, getting it off takes a lot of scraping, or wirebrush on a grinder or a solvent. The type of solvent would be based on if it is a rubberized undercoating or a tar based.

If you are going to drive the car as is, I would leave the undercoating.


If you can, take pictures.
Bruce Cunha

Mike,
Is there any chance that you can take a few photos and post them some where where we could have a look-see as to what shape the car is in ??

SPW
Steve Wincze

Unless the wood is bad, that sounds like a really good price for a running (no smoke) TD? Even with bad wood (although a ton of work) it is still a good price... If it runs, idles and stops, $10,000 would be about the range?
gordon lawson - TD 27667

Mike-
I'm also in Northern Calif. If you're close you can stop by and look at the TD's I have and I can show where the problem areas can be found. I'm located in Livermore. Drop me an e-mail if you need any advice.

Roy
Roy Challberg

Mike:

The TD never came from the factory with a black interior. The interior matched the radiator slats. If repainted, the slats could have been changed too. I found original paint on my 1952 TD Mark II under the dashboard on the bottom of the scuttle and on the supporting hoop. Look for hidden areas that would not ordinarily have been repainted.

The lettering on the data plate is probably EX-U. According to Clausager's book "Original MG T Series", EX-R: Export, Right hand drive w/mph speedo;
EX-RK: Export, Right hand drive w/kilo speedo;
EX-L: Export, Left hand drive w/kilo speedo;
EX-LM: Export, Left hand drive w/mph speedo;
EX-U: Export, North American specifications,

The XPAG/TD engine had a 7.25" clutch, XPAG/TD2 had a 8" clutch, and XPAG/TD3 was used on Mark II engines from serial number 17029 and up.

There is nothing in the serial number to indicate paint or interior color. The TF serial numbers were coded with paint color.

John
John Masters

Mike,
Wasn't ignoring you ...I work weekends and normally away from my puter till sunday or monday! Looks like others had jumped in to help though! Still the best advise..hook up with somebody near you that knows these cars. 2nd best thing about owning a "T" is all the new friends that come with it! ("1st" being driving with bugs in your teeth!) I have never made it to a "GOF" but really going to make the effort this year...so many people from this post I consider good friends that I have never met! (Hope I can work enough to save up $ for all the "OSH's" I have promised over the years!)
Cheers,
David 55 TF1500 #7427
David Sheward

This thread was discussed between 17/02/2006 and 19/02/2006

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