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MG TD TF 1500 - Why is the rear floor in three sections?

I'm puzzled why they split the rear floor in three sections on the TD. Seems totally unnecessary as you can make it in a single piece of plywood and remove it easily once you take the seat out. Anyone know why?
Geoffrey M Baker

I think the only access is to get to the Reae axle to fill it or top up the level It does not need to be bigger really.

JMHO
Rod
Rod Jones

Access to the diff filler. The trim sits on top of the other two pieces. The centre section should come out without removing anything else, as far as I'm aware. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Think about it, how many times have you checked the fluid level in your rear housing? Once filled, in your shop, and there are no leaks, check it in another 20 years or so! That center panel is a joke. It's a leak waiting to happen. The British weren't known for building leak free cars, from the top or bottom! I would only put it back if the car was concours. My car is not. My new box floor is a solid piece of varnished marine plywood. I will however, install an access panel over the rear mounted fuel pump. Someone on this forum, David ???, installed deep stainless steel trays in his floor to carry extra small items, nice idea, I might do the same. PJ
Paul S Jennings

Paul,
I got the idea from David and others. It is a very easy access to the differential.
Mort


Mort 50 TD

I missed the tray installation; what a great idea!

Where did you buy the trays, a restaurant supply house?
JE Carroll

Restaurant supply store is where I got my trays. I also made the floor from one piece of varnished marine plywood and sealed with silicone calk. It's a little tricky, but you can check the read diffy from under the car. I check it every year but have yet to need to add any fluids.

When I first got the TF the side curtains were rusted and wet from the 3 piece floor. When I rebuilt the "box" I made it larger and put a lock on it under the flap. I carry a lot of spares!

http://www.ttalk.info/Sheward.htm

David Sheward 55 TF1500 # 7427

That's what I thought. Access to something that never needs it. As it takes three seconds to remove the rear seat, it's hardly necessary. As I don't have a concourse car, I'm not going to rebuild it to spec.
I will think about an access hole for the differential filler; but otherwise I'll plan on adding 4 captive nut clip ons from mcmasters to replace the four bolts on the side that don't have captive nut boxes already, and just use a single sheet of ply.

PS, removable rollbar project is about 70% complete!
PPS, Mort, I'll bet those come in handy for MG cookouts! :)
Geoffrey M Baker

Mort, did you have to do anything to the brake line on the driver's side to fit that tray? My line curves up and right through the space where you have installed that tray.

The tray on the passenger side seems perfect plus if it's easily removeable you can use it as your differential inspection cover.
Geoffrey M Baker

Geoffery,
My brake line is further back and straight across. I did not have to move it.

Below is a copy of the invoice for the trays. I used the 6" deep.

http://www.webstaurantstore.com/4-deep-1-3-size-standard-weight-stainless-steel-steam-table-hotel-pan-anti-jam/4070349.html


Mort 50 TD

David, It's your I remember from quite a while ago and where I got the idea. Nice. PJ
Paul S Jennings

Geoff, you might want to take a closer look at the wood. You cannot just remove a couple of screws and remove the entire rear deck. There are other components on top of it, e.g., the side curtain compartment cover. The center section is also ready access to the parking brake cables. Bud
Bud Krueger

You guys crack me up. Next you will be keeping warm food in these trays :-)

BTW if you interior is original the side panels have the upholstery tacked to the edges so one panel would not work. Plus its easier to manipulate a small panel for access via the one large one.
Christopher Couper

Mort, I don't suppose you have the dimensions for that ply and its cutouts hanging around somewhere, do you?
Geoffrey M Baker

Thanks David and Mort,

Although my floor is a new three piece I'll seriously consider the modification.

I've got a Norton Commando and follow a forum dedicated to the type. Most guys keep the stock or mostly stock look but do upgrades to make them more ride-able, especially the brakes, electronic ignition, stainless hardware,better alternator, lights, etc. Others go full out and make them better than they ever were and a very few go for 100% original. I'm a middle ground guy. I like the look, sound, and good handling but I want it to be as reliable as possible in a 40+ year old machine. 100% stock is for a select few and I respect them for it. I feel the same way about this old car and want to make it as useable as possible.

Jim
JE Carroll

"Next you will be keeping warm food in these trays :-)"

Warm food in one and cold beer in the other ;-)

Mike
Mike Fritsch

Here's my next project:


Geoffrey M Baker

Geoffrey,
I did not make a plan or sketch.
From memory(dangerous):
I made the blank and set it in place.
Then I got underneath and marked the screw hole locations.
Drilled and countersunk the screw holes.
Then I got under again and held the food tray up to the bottom where I was sure there would be no interference, both while standing still and bouncing along the roads. Then I traced to outline of the tray. Then I reduced the hole size appropriately for the tray flange, so they would fit in snugly.
A coat of paint, a few screws and I was done.
I left the trays loose with no hold down of any sort.
The tray tops are nice and flat and when the rug is in place you see nothing.
They don't rattle or leak and are great for spare parts belts and oil etc.
Mort
Mort 50 TD

>Geoff, you might want to take a closer look at the >wood. You cannot just remove a couple of screws and >remove the entire rear deck. There are other >components on top of it, e.g., the side curtain >compartment cover. The center section is also ready >access to the parking brake cables.
>Bud
>


I have been trying hard not to limit access in this area. I feel its very useful.

Some day I want to change the rear axle.
I may need to change the break cables. The ones I have are shop made, (Using aircraft stainless cable, but you never know.)
The rear break bleeder screws are accessible through the opening.

I did not want to glue down the carpet or put in the binding on the rear fender wells.

I have secured the rear carpet with snaps. The carpet on the vertical step is also secured with snaps.

Jim B.


JA Benjamin

This thread was discussed between 19/11/2014 and 20/11/2014

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