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MG TD TF 1500 - XPAG starting after complete restoration
Hi guys: I am about ready to start my TD after a 4-5 years restoration and I remember reading that you must prime the oil pump but I do not know how. Any advice will be appreciated. Thank you. Stuart PD I am a member, I do not know why the program does not recognize me as such. |
Stuart J. Ramos |
Stuart, I cannot help you prime the pump, but I can tell you how to get the forum to show you as a member... Go to the home page, login as a member (I hope you remember the info), click on the link to the BBS, BOOKMARK THAT PAGE. every time you want to go to the forum, use that bookmark and you will be seen as a member. It is not the same as other forums because it pre-dates those other forums. I believe the app was custom written and there are aspects of it that I like better than any other forum I have seen. Especially now that they sped it up again. Another thing to remember is that, when using that bookmark, you should NOT send people links to a thread using the address bar. If you do, they will then be logged in as you. It is a little bit of a nuisance to start anotyher session and go in clean just to get the link, but it is better to do it that way.. Daviod "hope this made some sense" Lieb |
David Lieb |
Stuart, if your pump lacks the priming plug (added late in TD production), and if you have not packed your pump with vaseline for self priming, and if you can't achieve prime turning the engine over by battery without the ignition on (and seeing a rise in the oil pressure gauge, then you can disconnect the lower banjo bolt (pipe for the head feed) and feed oil into that location while turning the engine backward by putting the car in fourth gear, jacking up one side of the rear end and turning the rear wheel backwards until prime is achieved. It may take a few tries. You are basically turning the engine backwards and the pump backwards. By feeding in the oil backwards, prime happens. warm regards, dave |
Dave Braun |
Stuart;; I use a garden sprayer pressure can. I made a fitting to screw on to the oil pressure outlet fitting. I then fill the can with the toral amount of oil needed for the engine and then pressurize the can. Lock open the handle and let the oil flow into the engine. It will permeate everywhere including the rocker arms. One time I fitted a "T" fitting and watched the oil pressure gauge read 35 lbs when I started.It will drop down as the oil enters the oil galleries but keep up the pressure and you will have completely oiled the crank/camshaft and rocker arm bearings. Sandy Sanders |
Sandy Sanders |
I use the same pressure sprayer that Sandy writes about, but have modified the sprayer with a 'T' fitting on the end of the hose that I temporarily put in place of the existing fitting between the flexible hose from the engine and the rigid line to the oil pressure gauge. I also set up the sprayer so I can pressurize it with my air compressor. Cheers - Dave |
David DuBois |
I second Dave Braun's method...very easy to do. Takes a while if you're doing it by yourself but would be real easy with two...one to turn the wheel and one to prime the pump from the top. By the way, use your wife's turkey baster to put the oil in the top of the pump. Gene P.S.- Not saying it's easier than using a garden sprayer pressure can...just that you don't have to buy anything or make any special fittings. |
Gene Gillam |
Hi Guys: Thank a lot for your help, I will try to start "Olegario" (a 1953 TD) next Friday and will let you know how it goes. David I signed in per your instructions, let see if I did it right and am recognized as a member. Thanks you all. Stuart |
Stuart J. Ramos |
Stuart - BEFORE you start up the motor, what are you using for the break in oil and your flat top tappets? You better have something with ZDDP in it or you will blow out the cam & tappets. hank |
Hank |
Stuart; You can get a good product from your local GM dealer. It is called EOS (engine oil supplement)It is around 9-10 dollars for the bottle. Use it all in your oil for the first oil change at least. Sandy |
Sandy Sanders |
Castrol has come out recently with a new Syntec 20-50 especially formulated for our older cars...and will be a great oil to used after your cam is broken in. http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=82915470&contentId=7032644&CastrolLinkTrace=5001199955 Note these sentences in the description: "High–zinc formula specially engineered for classic engines." * Contains increased zinc levels for extra engine wear prevention. * Utilizes proprietary additives and base oils to reduce metal–on–metal contact of aging engine parts. * Engineered to increase wear protection for classic cars with flat tappet camshafts. * SYNTEC 20W–50 does not meet the catalyst compatibility requirements of vehicles manufactured since 1993. Also...unless the bottle states "For Classic Cars" it's NOT the high zinc Syntec...Castrol also makes a regular 20-50 Syntec oil. |
Gene Gillam |
Stuart Remove your spark plugs and valve cover. Hopefully, you have glued/sealed your valve cover to the engine block only. If you have installed one of the new vertical spin on oil filter adapters, fill the new filter with oil before you screw it on. When you fill it on the work bench, let it sit for five minutes, then fill it again. With the ignition switch turned off, reach over the engine and manually pull the starter switch. With the plugs removed the engine will turn over easier and should not harm your starter. You should see oil coming from the tappets after about ten to fifteen seconds. If I have oil coming to the tappets now, I like to remove the oil gauge pipe nut where it connects to the gauge behind the dash. Place the pipe and nut in an empty coke bottle and turn the engine over until oil comes out the oil pipe, then reconnect to oil gauge. You should have oil pressure to gauge. Once you have oil to the pressure gauge, reconnect the plugs and valve cover. I like to check everything again, just turn the engine over sitting in the seat with ignition key off until you see oil pressure reading on the gauge. Even now after ten years of running, I never start my TD engine until I see an oil pressure reading on the gauge, then I turn the ignition key on and start it. Now you should be ready to start your engine. Once you do you should get an oil pressure reading of about 40. If it is less, check where you are taking the oil pressure reading. If you connected to the upper banjo fitting on your engine you will get a lower reading. There has been some discussion on this board as to the correct take off point either upper or lower, but you will get a lower reading at the upper banjo. Good luck and keep us posted. John |
John Hambleton |
John, Methinks ye means the rockers, nae the tappets. Gord Clark Rockburn, Qué. |
Gordon A. Clark |
Gordon C. Methinks ye are correct. John |
John Hambleton |
Stuart, besides oil pressure, check for fuel leaks, have a fire extinguisher and/or garden hose handy, and be ready to pull the battery cable off if the Lucas smoke starts to leak out somewhere! George |
George Butz |
Hi everybody: Thank you very much for your excellent advice. I will attempt starting either this Friday or next Monday. I will keep you posted. David Lieb, it worked, I am finally recognized as member. Than you. Stuart |
Stuart J. Ramos |
This thread was discussed between 03/02/2008 and 06/02/2008
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