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Triumph Spitfire - mk3 driveshafts
|does anyone have any advise on the proceedure for overhauling rear driveshafts on mk3 spitfire. ie stripping down what can and should be replaced etc. i want to completley strip down so components can be blasted and painted. while apart i want to replace anything to ensure a first class restoration. should spring be replaced also, checked etc.|
any advise would be welcomed
|On my 68' Mk3 I just followed the proceedure in the Haynes manual for overhaul.|
The hardest part will be getting the Hub off. I tried Pullers and heat but to no sucess. Eventually I used a hydraulic press and had to apply 13tonnes to shift the damm thing. They "are" on there tight, so seek out the right equipment for the job or you may damage something.
I also had to replace one of my driveshafts as the bearing had seized and spun on the shaft.
The rear spring I just wire brushed and repainted as it wasnt "sagging" really.
|If you mean the same "Hub" as for the rear of a TR6, you will want to read the thread on this topic for TR6's down below. They have 18 people commenting on this and it might help with your Spitfire problems.|
Check out "Rear Axle Bearing Hub".
I have learnt a lot from the TR6 chaps about TR6's - even though I have a TR3A.
Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A
|The Spitfires are much easier than a TR4A(IRS) through TR6. You have much the same issue getting the drive hub off on the Spitfire as on the TR series IRS cars, but the similarity ends there. No end floats set by locknuts with tab washers/collapsible spacers to deal with. The Spitfires also seem to be less prone to drive hub damage if a hydraulic press is used compared the IRS TR series cars. Operating on the assumption that the rear axle assembly is off the car the brake drum has been removed, here you go.|
1) Remove the drive hub.
2) Remove lock tabs and four bolts holding outer bearing/seal retainer
3) Press bearing housing "inward" to force off retainer housing off, extract outer bearing.
4) Remove bearing housing and inner bearing.
5) Knock races out of housings.
When refitting use a new nyloc nut. Take some tube stock with an ID just larger than the studs, cut to the length(to protect the threads) and a pry bar can be used across the protected wheel studs to provide reverse torque when tightening the drive flange retaining nut. The torque on the drive flange nut to axle is 90-120 ft-lbs. (12.4-16.6 kgf m)Again, I am assuming at this point that you have cleaned and inspected EVERYTHING before putting it all back together. Also note that you can remove the rear hub, bearing housing, etc from the car without removing the rear axle assembly from the car if you have the proper hub pulller.
BTW, Don what can I say? we have a Spitfire too, so I have to know my around them as well. While I don't have one the hub tools for the TR series, but do have one for the Herald based cars.
This thread was discussed between 15/01/2003 and 18/01/2003
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