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Triumph TR3 - Advice for Studs
|Lest anyone take it the wrong way, I need advice on how to properly install a new stud into the axle. Any tips for tightening and/or locking into place?|
|Did it break off when you took it apart ? If you still have a bit sticking out, use penetrant and heat, then twist it out with good vise-grips.|
If there is no "extending" bit still there, drill most of it out with a small drill, then a larger and larger drill, then dremmel out along one side till you are just about to cut into the threads in the hub.
Then penetrant and heat, Put an extractor tip into the hole and reverse out the remains. This is a tapered tool bit that is square and has been hardened. The 4 corners have sharp edges that bite into what is left of the stud. They come in different sizes. Check with the man at your Ace Hardware store.
Put the new stud in and "voila" as we say up here.
|Actually, the stud came out very easily. It was rather "wobbly" in the hub, apparently the threads on the stud were semi-stripped, but the threads in the hold in the hub were fine. The new stud threads in much better.|
My question is, how should one tighten the new stud into the hub? Is it necessary to torque it down by tightening two nuts on the stud and then driving it with a wrench? Should any type of thread locker, such as Loctite, be used?
|I wouldn't use a thread locker. Coarse threads are usually for tapped holes in cast iron. Examples are the intake and exhaust manifold studs in the head and the rear of the block for the bell housing studs.|
If the stud has a central area with no threads, grip this zone with vise grips and tighten it to the bottom.
It only needs to be as tight so that it doesn't fall out here. When you put the last nuts on and tighten all 6 of them, the studs will be in tension as per the correct torque and they will never move or loosen.
This thread was discussed on 21/02/2004
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