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Triumph TR3 - clutch slipping

My clutch appears to be slipping on my TR3A. I have a full synchronized 4 speed without an overdrive. The symptoms are: I can not pop the clutch anymore and grab rubber in first, the RPM's just run up as the car accelerates. In third and forth gears if I give it the gas the RPM's climb but the speed doesn't. It feels like the clutch is slipping causing the RPM's to accelerate but the car is not responding. Is there an adjustment on the clutch or what, or other suggestions?
Charles

Charles, In regards to the slipping problem you have, there are a number of things to look out for. The first things you need to do is make sure the basics are in perspective. The clutch is hydralic, meaning it uses the same master cylinder as the brakes. Of course make sure the resivor is full of fluid, and there is no air in the brakes. If that is ok, over the years brake fluid breaks down like other fluids, and even though it seem clean in the res., it can easily be gummed up in the line that leads to the throwout bearing. Try pulling the line off at the res., and to the clutch, using commpressed air blow the line out noting if any gunk comes out. If not ,check the slave cylinder for futher gunk, and it returns normaly. If all that is fine, then it is time to start getting dirty. The clutch, pressure plate and flywheel are very tempermental on these cars, mileage, heat, and rust that can occur from not driving it very much will develop a rough surface causing the clutch plate to stick, bind, or even come apart. The flywheel can get what we call hot spots, and lead to failure from glazing causing a disc to have no adhesion, espicially if both sides are glazed. Also is the pressure plate noticably weak in return, or hard in applying? If so, then the diaphram is geting weak, or the fingers are worn and the springs are getting weak. Check a few of these symptoms out and see if any of this gives you some input on your problem. Let me know, and I will be glad to help you, or any one else if I can........Sal
sal

Hi Sal glad to hear from you. I have a clutchl that doesn't engage until the pedal is almost at the top. I was told that the transmission was rebuilt and a new clutch installed. Does the clutch need to be bled more or was I strung a line about the new clutch? Any experience I have about clutches tell me the clutch disc is warn and should be replaced.
Steve.
Steve

Hi Charles

I had the same problem and the solution eluded me for a while. It turned out I needed a new hose between the master and the slave. The rubber had swollen to the point it wouldn't let the fluid back fast enough. If yours always slips, like if you've had it in that particular gear for quite a while, this probably isn't the problem. For me, it was shift to 3rd under hard acceleration, and it would slip enough to notice. Cheap fix, by the way, $20 or so.

Some of the things I thought it might be were: clutch disk sticking on the splines of the input shaft, oil on the disk, faulty clutch plate return springs (which was the problem on one car), etc.

In regard to Steve's question, it usually seems to be the other way around, in other words, you can't push the pedal down far enough to get it to disengage. That really helps you a lot, doesn't it? Is your clutch slipping, too? Seems like it would be or will be. Same as riding the clutch pedal.

There are adjustments. The main one is at the slave cylinder. Memory says .020 in. You back the lock nut off, run the rod up to the slave piston, run the nut up to a feeler gauge (check the manual) then back the rod out to the nut and tighten. Some earlier 3's have adjustable rods on the master cyl. Same method, can't remember the clearance.

There is also the infamous clutch fork tapered pin. It holds the actuating lever(makes the throwout bearing move)in place on the shaft. This usually breaks and leaves a lot of play there. You then have to push way down on the pedal to get anything to happen, and it's not usually enough to release the clutch. So you have to remove the trans., remove the broken pin by drilling on the opposite side of the head and punching it out. Then put in a new one (not too tight).

I had a trans rebuilt once and they didn't put the bushings in for the clutch shaft. Causes wierd noises.

Hope I cleared it up a little. Search around a little on the web, and you'll find TONS of time killing (saving?) info.

Don't buy a Miata yet!
Tom

This thread was discussed between 24/08/2000 and 06/09/2000

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