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Triumph TR3 - Door Latch Cable Pulls

Now that I'm using my sidecurtains, I'm taking more notice of the missing door latch pulls inside the car. Sliding back the window and reaching out to open the door is not ideal, but it works.

I just received two of the plastic sheathed cable pulls with the ball on one end and open cable on the other. Where do these attach inside the door and latch assembly? I can't find any information or diagrams showing how or where to rig them.

Any guidance would be appreciated!

Bill Stagg
1961 TR3A, TS67947L
Bill Stagg

I'm just guessing but I seem to remember that after you take the trim panels off the doors, you will find a sheetmetal bracket up front of where the door pocket in the trim will be found. You remove the plastic slide piece and thread the wire through from the front so the ball becomes a stop. Them with the cable horizontally back, you slip on the plastic sheath cover and attach the rear end to a threaded screw with tiny hole through it which you should find on the lever arm on the door latch assembly. Pushing down on the sheath shortens the length and pulls the lever arm forward. Then the latch will move forward. For re-assembly, you will see a slot (or maybe two slots)in the door pocket in the door trim. Slide the door trim so this slot fits up (or down) around the door latch release cable. Make sure the plastic sheath part is in the door pocket where you put your hand (or fingers) to push down on the sheath/cable. Then screw the door panel trim back on.

If this doesn't work, let us know and I'll take winter cover off "TRusty" and take a look.

This month, I've done 35 hours work on the 1960 TR3A that I'm restoring for a chap in Toronto. I replaced all the rusty sheet metal from the middle of the rear spare wheel cutout down to the bottom plus a new floor for the wheel well with 8 new pieces of sheetmetal I had made at a local sheetmetal body-work cutting, rolling and forming shop.

Don Elliott, 1958 TR3A
Don Elliott

Thanks for the guidance, Don. Very helpful. I'm "going in" this afternoon, so I'll let you know what I find during the operation.

From what you say, it sounds as though the TR you're restoring is NOT your own? Or are you restoring two cars at one time? Let me know if you're open for freelance projects!

Regards,

Bill
Bill Stagg

I'm restoring a TR3A for Frank Redmond from Toronto at a fee per hour. His frame was so rusty that when I lightly tapped it with my ball-peen hammer, it went into the steel (rust) as if I had hit a croissant. So I got a frame from Joe Alexander in Iowa. The frame came from Utah. Joe took it on his trailer to a race a few years ago at Limerock Conn. and then he was coming up near here, so I drove 150 miles with a trailer down to Vermont to get it.

It looks like I have 3 TRs in my garage. "TRusty" under it's winter blankets, Frank's original frame (took the front suspension parts all off yesterday & today, all that remains is the engine) and then there is the "new" frame where I'm patching all the sheetmetal on Frank's body pieces with my MIG welder. It will have to all fit the new frame.

I started at Xmas 4 years ago and I put in about 40 hours per month each winter season from November to April. There's still lots to do. Earlier this month, I MIG welded in a new floor pan for the wheel well as well as the bottom parts below the spare wheel well opening in the rear valance.

New freelance projects will have to be delayed at least until this one is finished. Maybe you'll see it at TRA in 2005.

Don

Don Elliott

Voila! I am now able to open the doors from the inside of the car, just in time for today's first dusting of snow here in Indianapolis. The driver's door latch lacked the attachment bolt for the cable, so I prepared one based on your description. Then I found the original bolt still installed on the passenger side latch (with a bit of cable still in its grip).

Thanks for your help, Don. I love it when stuff works!

Bill
Bill Stagg

This thread was discussed between 21/11/2003 and 24/11/2003

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