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Triumph TR3 - Master Cyl compatible w/TR4???
|I was wondering if it is possible to use the TR4 style dual master cylinder on a TR3? I hated the combo master cyl on my MGA - look Ma, no brakes, no clutch!|
The brake/clutch pedal cluster looks the same between the 3 and 4. I am not concerned about originality - this car has no hope of competing in shows, and technical updates are (in my opinion) a very good idea.
Also, is there an oil filter adapter for screw-on filters? I upgraded the filter on my MGA from the original toilet paper roll style and used the adapter found on later MGB's and Austin Marinas. Look Ma, no more oil leaks from the filter!
Anyone know of a site dealing with TR3 compatibility issues?
|Moss and the other usual guys sell spin on adapters for the TR3. Some people I know have had leaks with the spin on adapter and went back to the original type filter.|
|My TR3A has the original brake/fluid combination reservoir. Inside there is a second fluid reservoir. Check yours. One is for the brakes and the other for the clutch. When I lost fluid from one, the fluid stayed in the other. To solve this, I check the fluid levels as it says in the book - OFTEN. I also check all the other fluids, oil, anti-freeze, battery, etc, often. If you lose fluid (say for the clutch), you drove without using it. You can shift in all upper gears without a clutch if you synchronize the shift points by tapping on the throttle pedal. If you lose brake pressure, pumping would help till you can get to a place to add more fluid. That's why I carry spare brake fluid. You can also use the hand-brake. It was designed to stop the car (if it is properly adjusted) or at least to lock up the rear brakes back in the time of the mid-1950 rallies where the TR won many events. That's why you can pull it on and then "let go" to release the hand-brake.|
I still have the original oil filter body. I had trouble getting the outer cannister off till I did two things. I bought a ratchet spanner. One end is 1/2", the other end is 9/16". It is flat like an open or closed-ended wrench but both ends are closed and each has a ratchet. They sell for about $5.00 at Sears. This makes the long center retaining nut easier to turn. The other thing to do is to shorten this long center bolt by about 1'4" and file a pointy bullet nose onto the top end for easier installation. With it being shorter, the ratchet wrench takes off the bolt all the way without it interfering with the vent pipe coming out the side of the engine block just to the rear of the filter body.
Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A
P.S. - I drove my TR 10,069 miles this summer.
|I see no reason for you to not use the TR4 master, even though it's more expensive. If you have a used one from a 4, why not just put a kit in it and replace the canister? Well, you'd have to replace both unless you still use the canister for the clutch. If that's what you want, just do it! I thought about it myself, having a leaky canister once. I rather like the look of the 4 MS. Money-wise, you'd replace the canister far cheaper than 2 master cylinders (I never have had to replace the body, just clean up the bore and put inexpensive kits in. Hydraulics seem to be quite weak in these cars. Whenever I have done a restoration, the first thing to give me problems seems to be brake cylinders. Maybe it's because we don't drive them enough. (They get lonely, you know.)|
|tp in nb|
This thread was discussed between 10/10/2001 and 04/12/2001
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