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Triumph TR3 - removal of broken clutch fork retaining pin

Has anyone out there ever had the horrible experience of removing the pin from the clutch actuating fork and finding it was broken off inside the actuating shaft.It is clear of the shaft at the point of entry but I presume it is prjecting on the other side into a recess in the fork.The fork is loose on the shaft so I expect that the remains of the pin is stuck in the shaft.Since the pin faces down towards the bell housing it appears that you would need a substantial dentists drill with a right angle head to drill a hole in the pin for an "easy-out"
Any and all suggestions would be appreciated.
Regards Chuck
Chuck Baby

I've got a book titled "More BS about TR's" by Bob Schaller that addreses this problem on pg. 26. His suggestion which is claimed to have worked in over 100 cases is to drill into the fork from the opposite side with a 3/16 drill, and then use a 1/8 punch to drive the broken portion of the taper pin out. Then he suggests removing the fork, drill out the tapered hole with a "Q" letter drill bit, and tap with a 3/8-24 tap. Install a 3/8 x 1 1/4 GRADE 8 bolt, and drill the bolt head for safety wire. He also recommends that the rough cast surface of the fork be filed smooth where the underside of the bolt head contacts it. I've not tried this, but if these taper pins break with the frequency suggested by Mr. Schiller, this might just be the cure.
Mark Macy

I just pulled the taper pin out of my spare transmission, and it was broken just as I suspected. Drilling through the top of the fork was no big deal, but you're going to be drilling on an angle, and on a very small flat surface, so center punch the location first, and start with a very small drill bit. I had to drill deep, about half way through the taper pin, but I was able to get it out in about 20 minutes.
Mark Macy

Hi Mark :I am glad to see someone had a similar problem to mine.When you drilled a hole in the opposite side of the fork were you able to get the hole vertical enough and large enough to get a punch in without weakening fork arm .
Chuck cbab@

Chuck: I did have to drill at a slight angle, but by carefully centerpunching and starting with a tiny drill bit, you can make straighten it out some as you go to the larger bits. The fork is pretty beafy in this area, so I don't think that much strength will be sacrificed. The fork should be acceptable for a street car, but I wouldn't want to use it on a racer. Mark
Mark Macy

This thread was discussed between 15/02/2000 and 21/03/2000

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