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Triumph TR3 - TR-4 hot start problem

What's the best way to get rid of the dreaded hot start problem? Starts fine cold, but after a good run the solenoid just clicks and my rider gets to push. The hand crank is not my preferred answer. Has anyone out there used the gear-reduction units, and do they solve the problem? I prefer to stay original, but if my wife has to push a few more times, the $200 would probably be well spent. I still haven't pulled the old starter, but that's next. When it's cold, it turns over real good.
Well, thanks in advance for any and all input on this.

Assuming the battery is in good shape and this is a roadside event, the three most likely culprits: a. battery terminal connections b. malfunctioning starter solenoid c. bad starter.
a. when the problem shows up, turn on the headlights- observe the ammeter ( should be a bit negative) then hit the starter. If the ammeter goes to '0" and the lights go out- not just dim , it is likely that the connection between the battery and the solenoid is unable to handle the current and is temporarily blowing itself 'open'. If the ammeter stays towards negative and the lights stay on,, the battery connection is probably not at fault. Could be the ground connection , too, doing the same thing. check bat to body and body to block
b. solenoid check- when in malfunction mode, use a big screwdriver to short the battery/solenoid lead to the solenoid/starter lead- the big heavy wires on the solenoid. ( effectively jumping the solenoid out) Starter should turn the engine- Note- this may cause sparks, which are near to the carbs, so a fire hazard may be present. This can be a dangerous test, but desperate times call for desperate measures.
c. bad starter- Double check the heavy starter cable where it attaches to the starter. It's a nasty environment down there, and there is a chance the connection has gone bad. The best test is with a voltmeter, 2nd choice a test lamp., If it shows a good 12 V when starter switch is on and the starter is not moving , your starter may be kaput. be sure to measure at the power connection stud, not the cable lug. These high current connections will sometimes show problems only under high current demand, but will still look normal when only barely loaded by the voltmeter.
If all else fails, try visiting Joseph Lucas at home. Don't worry if the lights aren't on. They never are.
Bob W.
bob westerdale

This thread was discussed between 24/10/1999 and 25/10/1999

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