Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.



TR parts and Triumph parts, TR bits, Triumph Car Spares and accessories are available for TR2, TR3, TR3A, TR4, TR4A, TR5, TR6, TR7, TR8, Spitfire and Stag and other TR models are available from British car spares and parts company LBCarCo.

Triumph TR6 - 1969 TR6 Slide Show

For any one interested, I have created a couple of slide shows showing the rebuild of my 1969 TR6. One version is 12 minutes long, the other less than 4. You can choose how much time you want to spend watching. The link is

Any and all comments are welcome

Mike Petryschuk
Michael S. Petryschuk


Great slide show. There's hope for mine yet, go look.

lw gilholme


your slide of the wiring harness looks familliar..i think its a copy of what mine looked like when i started

Mike...fantastic...need say no more!

Bob Craske

Very cool. What did it really cost?

JL Bryan


You don't want to know. Let's just say I did it for the love of the vehicle, its family history, the challenge and maybe not the economic return. I might get the parts out of it if I sell it but probably not my labour. Of course, I plan on driving it for the next 20 plus years so I think if I amortize it over that period, the investment is not that bad. I also expect it will hold its value.

I had no will power when it came to the rebuild. My original budget did not include replacing most of the internal body panels (4 inner fenders, all the trunk components, the rear deck, the bulkheads, the A and B posts, the floor pans, some interior trim, etc.)thinking I would just patch them up. Once they were exposed though, I said to myself "I've come this far, might as well do it "right". I recored the rad and put in a new front wiring harness as well both not budgeted. The paint job was also higher than I thought it would be when I budgeted it but in retrospec is was just a guess and a bad one at that.

But that is all behind me and I now get to enjoy driving it, tuning it, doing oil changes, attending events.

Les- dood luck with your rebuild and enjoy it because having the end product is worth the effort.

Mike Petryschuk
Michael S. Petryschuk

Make that "good" luck Les, not "dood" luck

Mike :-)
Michael S. Petryschuk

Like I said to you at British Car did an excellent job. After watching both long and short versions, one can clearly see that you put a LOT of time and effort into the restore. You should be proud of what you did Mike. That is cool the car goes back in family history. See you on the road this summer.
Mike when you have a moment, could you send me the pics you have of us both at British Car Day.
Rick Crawford

Wow what a job. I admire your craftsmanship in your metal work. Did you fabricate all of the pieces for the frame repair? In all of your metal work, both body and frame, how did you keep it all aligned and square? I would think some small "creeping" misalignment stackups could cause major alignment problems when assembling the body to the frame and then all of the body panels. I had enough trouble keeping everything alingned when I replaced both outer sills. But that's nothing compared to what you did.

Excellent work!

HP Henry Patterson

Les, Bob, John, Rick Henry, Thank you for the compliments.


On the frame, I used 3 inch square tube by 3/16th thick to replace the rear trailing arm members. I used 1 1/4 inch square tube to replace the angled braces at the front of the frame. I used sheet metal- not sure of gauge but it was close to the same thickness as the original frame- that I cut in 3 inch wide strips and welded to the rest of the areas. Usually I cut out the side of a frame member back to where reasonably good steel was and welded the 3 inch strip in place versus boxing in the old steel. I used a template from a TR6 after market replacement trailing arm member to weld the holes for the rear trailing arm brackets in the square tube to ensure they were in the right place.

I measured 5 times then cut or drilled or welded. I used the original pieces as much as possible to get the dimensions.

I found a little twist in the frame at the rear where the left side was down about a quarter to half an inch versus the right side. Not enough to be noticable. The front was perfect. The body lined up with the frame very well since I did build the body using the frame to help line up things.

I did have some problems where I rebuilt the rear wheel wells when I put together the rear deck and rear inner fenders. The fit was tight probably due to some measurement problems I had since I had no template or dimensions and the original wheel wells were so corroded that determining what their original dimensions were was next to impossible. Another problem I did have even though I thought I had lined every thing up on the body was the final fit of the rear fender and doors. There was some overlap that to this day baffles me on how it developed. Maybe it was misalignemnt stack up as you suggest but how it crept in I am not sure or it was from lifting and transporting the body without any additional support or braces. The body shop had to take care of that since I did not have the techniques (nor the patience at that time)to fix. In any case they did a good job to get the doors and rear fenders to fit properly and they had some fun criticizing me saying I should have left it for the "professionals".
Michael S. Petryschuk

This thread was discussed between 10/04/2006 and 24/04/2006

Triumph TR6 index