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Triumph TR6 - '76 TR6 overheating
Opened the radiator to check the water level today, added just a bit. Capped it back up and went to head back home. Car began overheating pretty quickly, but prior to adding water it ran normally. Any ideas guys?
|I would try removing the cap...opening the heater to full heat and while the car is running ( go for a short drive speeds things up..and watch the gauge )also watch the water level as it reaches operating temp. Once the thermostat opens you might find a drop in water level.. maybe you have an air lock in there or a stuck thermostat?|
|Stuck thermostat? Unbelievably coincidental? Still full? Bad cap seal?|
|If you put the water in fast with the engine off you likely have an air pocket or lock as Charlie says. Air behind the thermostat and cold fluid on top it won't open. Try squeezing the top hose as it warms up with the cap off burping it. Make sure heater valve is open.|
Suggest always adding coolant slowly with engine running and warmed up. Thermostat getting cold fluid will close and create air pocket front of head where you don't want it..
When I looked into the tank on the radiator I saw a lot of silt in there. I yanked the rad and am going to have it boiled out and rodded out. I also drained the block and will flush it out thoroughly and refill with some fresh coolant and probably add some Water Wetter. I was just hoping it wasn't a blown head gasket.
|In answer to the first question - how's the belt condition? Could you have spilled water/coolant on the belt so that it slipped & glazed and wasn't turning the water pump as fast as before? Just a guess.|
Pulled the radiator and sent it to the radiator shop. They said the core is shot, basically crumbling so badly that they didn't even bother rodding it out. Got a new one on the way and also stuck a new thermostat in and even sprung for a new radiator cap and hoses ;)
Drained the block and will flush and fill it with fresh coolant and add Water Wetter. Hopefully that will do the trick.
|The intriguing thing here is that it was fine before the water was added.|
While you're at it, once everything is flushed & to your liking, use distilled/deionized water with (with coolant) in the radiator. It costs a couple bucks more, but it's worth it vs. tap water.
Lots of luck with the water wetter - the one (& only) bottle I bought did nothing for cooling here.
|I've been reading of 'water wetter' for years and have yet to find anyone who can actually document their reduction in temperature with the use of this product.|
I've never used it as I tend to keep my cooling systems functioning normally but it sure sounds like snake oil to me.
Anyone actually seen it do as advertised?
Well guys I got the new radiator in (arrived quickly, thanks to Scott at Team Triumph in Akron, Ohio). Also put in a new 180 degree t-stat as well as a new temp sending unit which, strangely enough, came in a Jaguar box. Filled the system up with fresh 50/50 coolant (no Water Wetter) and bled it out. Only problem now is that the needle on the gauge only comes up to the hash line right before the middle line, so I am thinking maybe the new t-stat is faulty? Either that or the car just runs cool by nature now that the cooling system is in order? Any ideas?
|The midpoint on the gauge is 180 deg F. If it's a cool day, you're not driving fast, and the thermostat has a minimum flow hole in it the gauge probably won't get dead-on middle. Take a hard drive on a hot day and see what happens.|
|While we're on the topic of engine temps; anyone ever put louvers in their hood? Did it make a difference in operating temp? Got any pictures for us? Kill two birds with one stone. Cooler running engine and liven up that "plain Jane" hood.|
|Hey, Steve. There was some talk about louvers a while back - and side vents too (either here or another forum. I run a duct from the radiator shroud back to the carbs and it works pretty well. I kinda like the hood.|
Drove the car home and the temp stayed inbetween the 2nd and 3rd hash marks, came up to dead center "normal" after I exited the freeway and was sitting at a light. Went back down to between 2 and 3. I guess I'll have to wait for a hot day to see how hot it goes.
|Brent, the cold air induction is a great way to boost power by making a denser fuel/air mixture, but probably does little to cool the engine. More power means more heat. The louver idea is an old idea taken from hot rodders and race cars. It promotes better airflow through the radiator and out through the louvers instead of being trapped under the solid hood. A good example of louvers is the Austin Healey 100M. Just wondering if anyone has tried it on the tr-6 with success. Also does anyone make a heat shield for the intake that sits directly over the exhaust? I bet lots of h.p. lost on that design. Maybe a ceramic metallic coating on both manifolds is the answer. The louvers would help pull the heat away from this area also.|
|Steve--Here's an example weekend louver project for you.|
Rick O. 72 TR6
|Steve - Are you saying you have cooling problems and want to enhance air flow through the radiator, or do you just want something that looks cool? |
I don't really have cold air induction with a filter box, ect - the duct just routes air to the carb area. Also, add a valve (preferable) or pinch off the water line to the inlet manifold heater in the summer. You can then think about a heat shield, but there will still be plenty of heat in the runners simply because the manifods are right next to each other going into the head.
|rick-that car leaves me speechless, is it yours?|
brent- no problems with mine, just want to see what creativity is out there. Without questions there can be no answers. thanks for the idea about the water valve. Do you reccomend any particular one? how much heat did the engineers intend to get to the fuel? might as well put a blow torch under each carb. Also whats up with the fuel line running around the whole block. This would have useful when I was stationed at Minot AFB ND.
|No Steve, not my louvered TR6. But if I was to go that route, I like what was done there the best.|
|Hey, Steve. Yeah - that fuel line next to the head is something else. Years ago I bought some Nomex sleeve packing and insulated the whole line. The packing just slips over the tubing.|
I'm out in Collierville - how 'bout you?
|brent- We're neighbors. I used to live there. Now live in Fayette co. Take Hwy 196 north from poplar(hwy 57) turn right on raleigh-lagrange go 2 miles then turn left on casey dr. 125 casey. stop by sometime.|
This thread was discussed between 11/04/2004 and 17/04/2004
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