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Triumph TR6 - Accelerator shaft
|I think they call it selective memory? I remember all the good times I had with my prior TR4. Seems I forgot you can NEVER repair just one thing. All I wanted to do was swap my Strombergs for Webers. But, during removal I decided to clean and dress the exhaust manifold, found that loose part,(washer Bracket), discovered all heater hoses need to be replaced and after removing linkage found the accelerator shaft to have no bushings left.|
Anyway, my question; Should the accelerator shaft have a bend in it? I would think not, but do not want to straighten it out without verifying. TRF Bluebook shows a straight shaft. Mine has a wicked bend 5" in from the end (see pic). If it is supposed to be straight, how in the world could it get bent like this?
I ordered new bushing kit from Arthur Lipp along with new bushings for the steering column (another discovery). The Carbs have arrived but need to wait until other items are done.
Early 72 TR6
As far I remember it is straight. And it is a common to have no bushing left.
|J. G. Catford|
|Bill 2 things|
The ratco especially if your going Webers. The stock linkage really doesn't allow full throttle
Interesting, Powder coat looks great on the pedal. I have been trying to think of what I can apply that will last and still be slick. I don't think the cable will work with the Weber 45 MCHH linkage but worth looking at.
|That cable works for twin DCOE's and Trip SU's and Stroms,so don't know why it wouldn't.|
I powder coated mine to The pedal box ,pedals shaft ,...everything
|Hi Bill -|
I would love to hear how the MCHH 45's perform after you get her up and running again. I am in the middle of an engine rebuild and plan on moving away from the Zenith carbs. The MCHH kit looks nice and is very affordable.
If the shaft is bent I would say that someone wasn't very careful when removing or replacing the engine - all too easy for the big lump of iron to bend the rod (ask me how I know...)
The linkage doesn't utilize a common shaft with a single point of control so there is no advantage to the cable, that I can see.
I will let you know. Going to pick up some fittings today. Hopefully will be running before the end of the week. Still need to change the fuel filter.
I think someone bent it because it was rubbing against the heater hoses at the return pipe, I discovered after straightening.
|Bill, will do some research on that.|
|Bill, Can you send me any instructions and illustrations for the linkage ?|
The pic I uploaded really tells it all. The holes in the long tabs mount on the bottom bolt of the carb. Each lever on the cams is then mounted directly to each carb.
The control rod utilizes the end of the original linkage. It actually looks pretty efficient and there is no slop. I like the use of the aircraft type swivel connectors. The only thing I plan on changing is the pivot point on the cams. It is currently an allen screw with spacers that bolts thru the main plate. If all works well, I plan on installing press in bearings in the main plate and turning a couple of shafts to replace the bolts. Right now, I just want to get the car running again. The pic attached here is in the instruction sheet. Can't see too much but you will get the idea.
This thread was discussed between 13/01/2011 and 19/01/2011
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