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Triumph TR6 - alignment and rack & pinion
when I took my 74 for a 4-wheel alignment, the shop recommand a new rack & pinion assemby and new tie-rod set. I really don't mind the new tie rod now, but I'd rather change the rack & pinion later in the winter myself.
Am I playing with safty?
After I change all new suspensions and bushings, the steering is firm and responsive. Are there any other likely worn out parts that I could have change, instead of the whole R&P assemby?
Thanks in advance.
Why did they say they wanted you to replace the R&P?
Perhaps you only need new R&P mount rubbers?
They didn't say much, and that why I am not convinced. By the way, I just have the solid mount installed.
Did you also change the bushings in the steering column? If you have "play" laterally and verticall in the steering wheel....bushes need replacing.
Also there is a rebuild kit for the ball and socket for the R&P...MOSS??
|Paddy - Although I'm sure the R&P can wear out, it isn't typical from what I've seen. Like Jim & Rick say, it's probably just the bushes that hold it down - an easy fix. Have someone move the steering wheel back and forth while you watch the 'rack' down by the radiator. If it moves at all, it's the bushes.|
|I 've just picked it up from the "classic car specialist". The rear is sqeaking crazy, it is so obviously something is not tightened. But I was just too disgusted to leave it for another day there.|
I just drove it to my regular humble mechanic to have it checked over.
the classic "specialist" said they can do toe only alignmwent and car will pull @ speeds
they recommand a new R&P assembly, and new outer tie rods
my problem with them is they recommand a new assembly instead of replacing the worn parts with the cost of twice the Moss list price plus labor! $500. ++ LABOR
I have already changed the column bushing, installed a pair of solid rack mount from Good Parts. I will do some inspections this weekend. The car drive quite well except the sqeaking noise from the rear left. I am too eager to put the car on the road right now. I will drive it cautiously to see how it goes. If it is OK, I will rebuild the R&P and replace the tie rod in the winter.
If anyone know of any safety issue here, I'd like to hear what you guys think.
When you bounce the car up and down can you hear the squeak? Or is it only when cars in motion?
If it squeeks bouncing.
If its been sitting for a long time a can of silicon spray lube in the spring mounts top and bottom and the rubber bushing mounts for trailing arms may be all you need.
If its motion only. Could be anything from a dried out u-joint? Brake assembly? Or a diff pin cracked loose. Diff pin usually only makes the noise at load changes or forward reverse?
To test for rack problems lift car on stands. Have someone hold the steering wheel and then grab tie rods and yank back and forth. You should have minimal backlash to the point of no feel. They have to be real bad to be dangerous.
Give some more info will try to narrow down.
The squeek is gone,
the humble mechanic tighten a few nut where the alignment specialist had loosen FREE OF CHARGE.
The springs and shocks and all suspension bushings front and back are new.
uprated springs & nylatron bushings from Good Parts
Koni adjustable front, Apple Hydraulic Heavy Duty rear.
4 new axel U joints, and new diff mount bushings
It drives fine now, may be I will change the passenger side bushing on the rack, and/or replace the inner tie rod and outer tie rod if necessary in the winter.
I will do the tie rod inspection this weekend
|Sounds like someone was trying to pay the weeks wages on your car Paddy. I know of a few around here myself.|
Get driven there buddy
|"can do toe only alignment"? Why? Because he doesn't know HOW?|
Find yourself another 'specialist' my friend. This guy is in WAY over his head.
I forgot to mention I have new front wheel bearings.
So it is not that much play there.
In the City here, most people don't fix their cars. So we are at the mercy of the specialists.
I just wonder, it is possible to do manual alignment ourselves?
The ONLY part of the 'alignment' you can do yourself is toe-in and that's only going to be CLOSE.
Then, after you do the toe-in, you can have it checked when the rest of the front end alignment is done.
The rest of it MUST be done with the proper alignment tools and measuring devices.
If I indeed have the inner and outter tie rod replace, then I will have it done again.
Anyone can recommand a shop near New York City?
|I've just completed a New York - Annapolis roundtrip for 450 miles with NO PROBLEM. Steering is tight. Gas economy is about 17.5 to 18 mpg. The seat felt thin (next project) or my bone felt old (no solution). the car is happily toward newborn( mile 00000 ).|
Before the trip, about 50 miles after the car was fixed. I noticed a nylon(non metal) sqeak from the rear if I bounce it while stationary. I have new nylatron bushings on the trailing arm and new poly diff mount bushings. Is it nomal?
|Hi Paddy, and everyone!|
I would suggest not changing the other rack mount as it increases kickback in the steering wheel and transfers the shock of bumps and potholes more directly to the rack. Good for racetrack use but not for bumpy streets.
Camber can only be adjusted on these cars, as far as I know, by shims. Rear suspension shims not too bad to insert at home ; I would think the front much more difficult. Some speed shops sell canber guages which use the hub or wheel rim as reference points but I feel this is pretty approximate unless you have a really (!) flat surface for the car to sit on.
Caster not possible to adjust, again as far as I know!
|For the rear, the shims at the trailing arm mount are primarily for adjusting rear toe. There is some ever so slight impact on camber. Rear camber is adjusted by bracket mix and match along with notch orientation. Here is where the adjustable brackets from Richard Good very well may be the hot lick of the decade, or year at the very least. I wish he had them when I had my rear suspension apart not long ago.|
On the front, the shims are not too bad to remove/add for camber adjustment. There is a way to make caster adjustments, but involves using non-Triumph parts and a little mod work. The one piece Jaguar XJ ball joints are used, along with the requisite adjusting shims. The body of the joint is narrower than the TR units, but taper pin is the same. Note that it does require either a: drilling out control arm holes to use 7/16 bolts or b: installing sleeves into the XJ ball joint housings for the 3/8 bolts.
This thread was discussed between 23/07/2004 and 09/08/2004
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