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Triumph TR6 - alternator, American made

About a year ago somebody posted an american car alternator, that could be used on a TR6. Since at the time I couldn't figure why you would want that, I paid no attention to it.
I am looking for a chrome alternator, I know the stock guys are groining but I saw one at a car show on a tr 6 and with a few chrome airfilters, and valve cover looked great. This guy even had a chrome coil and hoses.
Well since everything in America cars car be purchased chromed for pretty cheap I was wondering who remembers.
JOHN
john

GM 7127 (Camaro)can be used as a single or three wire hookup

jegs has one 713 17127 70 amp


let me kow how this works out re mounting using original brackets?

thanks

bob
Bob Craske

Hello,

I agree with Bob. My TR6 has a Delco from a Olds Toronado for 20 years. Finding a chrome one will be easy.
Cheers,

JGC
J. G. Catford

Explain the difference between the 3 wire hookup and the 1 wire, please. I got a new alternator recently and the wiring from the ignition is pretty well jury rigged. I would like to fix it, although everything except the brake light seems to work okay.

Thanks, John
JL Bryan

Hello,
Here are two links for a Delco swap to a MGB. It is basically the same route for a TR6 and your car won't be reluctant if you omit to say a word that it comes from a MGB.

http://www.mgbexperience.com/article/delco.html

AND
http://www.teglerizer.com/alternator/index.html


Cheers,


JGC
J. G. Catford

JG

did you have to make many alterations to the mounting brackets for the alternator swap?

bob
Bob Craske

Hello,

Yes indeed a longer upper bracket(adjustment ones) and a longer V-belt was mandatory. My only problem is I never remember which V-belt I must buy as a replacement. A real easy conversion.

JGC
J. G. Catford

Me again,

I found a better ref. for conversion with different set-up. In the archives it has been discussed previously and I remember that someone had fitted a Bosch alt. More expensive than Delco but easy to find in a scrap-yard from a Volvo. Well anyway the ref is:


http://www.vtr.org/maintain/alternator/conversions.shtml

And it is accessible for free without annoying susceptibility of no one

Cheers,

JGC
J. G. Catford

The Bosch alternator is actually from a '78 Ford Fiesta w/AC and rear defroster. The bad news is finding one with a pulley, as most rebuilders don't ship with a pulley, and NO availability from Ford or Bosch. I was ready to have one machined when Don Kelly offered his for sale (thanks, Don!)
The good news is it bolts on and plugs in. Took 5 minutes to replace my near-death Lucas unit. The Delco unit (I understand) takes a minor bit of wiring redo, should work great!
Good luck!
Rod
Rod Nichols

A couple of other points to ponder. First, the Lucas alt isnt all that bad, and parts for them are readily available. I repaired mine myself for a couple beers change from $50.

Second, although the (Fiesta) Bosch unit is a plug-and-play swap, pulley issues aside, it is not a good deal. Why would anybody go out of their way to retain that silly plastic plug? I would much rather have a nice output post on the alt where accessories such as electric fans, and reasonable headlights can get a direct source of current. Besides, when was the last time you saw a Fiesta? If you are convinced that you need a more powerful alternator, get a 1-wire Delco and be done with it.

Just my $.02
Nate
Nate Steiner

I did the Bosch swap and didn't have to keep the plastic plug. I just pushed the contacts out of the Lucas plug, insulated with some shrink tubing, and plugged into the Bosch. Actually easier than the binding post on the Delco. BTW--I sourced the Bosch from SC and it came with a pulley.
Rick Orthen

Nate

if you go to a one wire, then how do you get the gauge and warning lamps in circuit?

bob
Bob Craske

Bob, thats my question. It doesn't make sense.

John
JL Bryan

Gentlemen, I don't know why the gauges would not function the same regardless of the alternator used. As the ammeter on earlier cars is inline in the primary charging wire (brown, 10ga). The voltmeter on later cars simply reads system voltage, again from the brown circuit.

Another point to ponder when using a more powerful alternator, especially on the earlier cars, is the possibility to overload (and fry) the stock ammeter. IMHO, anything that can be done to supply high current accessories (headlights, aux lights, electric fan, stereo amps etc) directly from the alternator upstream of the dashboard is a good thing. I have no idea who the bonehead was that put spade type connectors on the back of an ammeter; probably the same guy who designed the ignition switch location. These things expand and loosen as they get hot. Add 30 plus years of crud and corrosion and resistance and these connections become little heat generators. More load means more heat, more heat means more resistance, more resistance means more heat. It's a viscious cycle.

Now, as for that little red light. A one wire alternator would require that this feature be rendered inoperative. If the brown/white wire was hooked up to the alternator post, bad things would happen. I have always considered this light to be of marginal utility at best anyhow. Therefore I assumed that anybody who was departing from originality far enough to fit a Delco alternator wouldn't be bothered by losing a little red light.

Just my $.02
Nate
Nate Steiner

This thread was discussed between 17/04/2006 and 27/04/2006

Triumph TR6 index

This thread is from the archive. The Live Triumph TR6 BBS is active now.