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Triumph TR6 - Back to clutch problem

Several weeks ago I posted a clutch problem (not completely disengaging) and got several ideas. Finally pulled the transmission, fork, pin, rear thrust bearing OK (replaced it while I was there), throwout bearing, disk pressure plate all OK(were replaced about 5K miles ago. (clutch worked fine up until about two months ago)

Got sidtracked with life and just got transmission back in car today.....still have problem.

Looking at the travel on the slave cylinder I just don't think it is enough. Rebuilt the master and slave cylinder when I was starting this journey. The only thing left is to replace the red tube. It looks OK, no leaks, no visable buldges but since that is about.

Before I order a new red tube....any other thoughts?
V Dahl

I always start with the easiest then work my way back....I would have replaced that hose first since it is the easiest/ can shim the slave or try the top hole to see if it is the slave before investing in a new one or at least renew the clevis pin.
JT White


Agree with JT. My slave has a few extra washers added to it. Still all the way to the floor for clutch.

There is very little travel of the slave...sorry can not remember off top of head the actual distance....close to 1/2".

Is the hydraulic system blead properly? Is the bleed nipple at the top of the slave?

I have posted this before. I had a weird problem with the red hose. I too had no clutch and went through all the usual causes and yes also removed the clutch with no change. I discovered that one end of the "factory crimped" red hose actually turned in the hose....the crimp failed. You could not see this but of course as you depressed clutch air was drawn into the pipe and obviously no clutch. I put on a screw hose clamp to the ofending end and have had no problems since. I guess I should replace the hose someday.

Rick Crawford

If you are going to replace your red clutch slave cylinder hose, another alternative is the stainless steel braided hose. Mine is made by Goodridge.


I rebuilt my slave cylinder but within a season or 2 it stopped traveling enough to fully disengage the clutch (leakage around the slave piston due to too much wear in the slave piston cylinder bore). A new slave cylinder fixed the problem.

Michael Petryschuk

Problem fixed---simple is often the problem.

Here's what I did without solving problem:

1. Rebuilt master and slave
2. Pulled transmission...fork, pin, TO bearing OK
3. Replaced rear thrust bearing..worn but OK
4. Replaced red tube

Was about ready to push the car off a cliff when I was looking at the master cylinder as my wife pushed the clutch in and I heard a slight "hissing sound". Got down close and found it was coming from the metal pipe coming off the master cylinder. Found there was a small crack in the pipe under where the big bend is.

After all of this work, replaced the $19 part and I now have a great clutch....unfortunately I live in Seattle, WA and it has been raining ever since but that is another story.

One other thing I found during this challenge. My wife was getting really tired of bleeding the clutch so I was looking for an alternative. Found a guy on Ebay who sells a bleeder screw that has a one way valve in it so you can bleed the clutch or brakes by yourself. it works great.

Thanks everyone for your time I am going to look at the easy things first.
V Dahl

V.- They are called speed Bleeders and are a good investment ,specially for us folks with no help. They are available at NAPA. You just have to do some cross referencing.
Congrats on the solution to the problem
Weather has been sucky,drove the Wedge the last time a week ago to play golf and I think I might be done for the year. Time to pull it apart again as it a new short block time.

This thread was discussed between 11/10/2010 and 27/10/2010

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