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Triumph TR6 - bench bleeding clutch hydraulics

Hate to ask this but could someone fill me in on the steps for "bench bleeding the clutch hydraulic components"
Mark

Hi Mark

Small system and short run should not require bench bleed? Dual brake systems require bench bleeding of master due to equalising and various passages. But with short run and simple single master/slave I don't see it necessary. That's as I see it but TRS have a way of tricking everybody.

Luck
Bill

B Brayford

Hi again

Sorry just read your last post and reply from Steven. If you have contaminated fluid in your system, air entrained or water. May be causing problem.

Because of closed system complete purge may be needed. Without taking everything off. I would think if you remove your slave line. Remove reservour cap and let the fluid flow out. Put a little new in and let flow just to be sure. Open the bleed nipple with line still off on the slave take clevis pin off at clutch and gently shove back to clear all fluid.

Put clutch clevis back on. Slave line back on leave bleed nipple open. Make sure slave cylinder bleed nipple is tilted up. Fill reservour slowly important slowly. Allowing fluid to let air get out and do gravity bleed. Watch reservour and keep topped up. As long as the system is clean you should have clean fluid at bleed nipple. Close with fluid running. Check reservour and close. Helps to have 2 people

Try it you should have clutch. Due to junk in system you may have to do standard pressure bleed after a bit. I hope I have described it OK this always works for me. One tip always keep your bleed hose and cup on single man system above bleeder valve. Air moves up faster than brake fluid.

Luck
Bill
B Brayford

Bill,
I rebuilt my clutch hydraulics on tuesday 2hrs. from start to drive away, with the frontend on top of a sidewalk at the hotel I frequent on Martha's Vineyard Island. Enough BS, your tips on gravity bleeding were very helpful and anyone doing a rebuild should copy them as it made the job of bleeding very smooth compared to my last attempt. After gravity worked I had 1 good belch of air left before I had full clutch, then 1 more before I sealed it up and drove away.
Thanks,
Keith
K.B.Dixon

I don't know where, but I seem to remember (I don't think I suffer yet from "Alka-Seltzer" disease - Oh!, I forgot the name of that memory disease) that someone reported where they stuck a 2 by 4 about 3 feet long between the clutch pedal and the front of the seat (or somewhere else that's good for you) and left the clutch pedal compressed to the floor overnight and the next day, all the air bubbles were gone. I think it works for the brake lines too. This might eliminate the need for "bench bleeding".

Don Elliott, 1958 TR3A with 4 cylinders where all 4 cylinders work, not like a lot of TR6's where only 3 cylinders work. Or none work at all !!
Don Elliott

Don,
The 1st time I had a hydraulic problem I had a 2x3 stuck from clutch pedal to dash support (TR6) and 2days later ready to drive the air bled out thru the vent hole in the top of the fill cap beginers luck. I had left the 2x3 by mistake.
Keith 72 TR6
(all six firing just fine thank you as of 10 minutes ago)Makes me wish I was going to Stowe this weekend.
K.B.Dixon

A tip: I use a large syringe and a piece of rubber hose that is a very snug fit on the bleeder valve. Remove the fluid from the master cylinder and push the new fluid back up through the bleeder. Shut of the bleeder after each syringe full and remove the excess from the master cylinder. Works for me, and I don't have to pump the pedal to remove air.
Joe Justice
Joe Justice

Mark
Well it looks like we have another closet TR owner coming out and asking a question...just kiddin Mark.
Anyway do not bother with the bench bleed. Looks like this 2x3 (or in Dons case 2x4...older cars with 4 cylinders require a larger piece of wood) works fine. I just did the normal brake bleed using a mity-vac and worked for me. Mark if this is a new system or totally rebuilt (new rubber stuff) consider the DOT 5 synthetic. There is a current ( and a past 10GB) posting on this subject.

Hay Don K....do you beleive it...this old unemployed guy, who apparently has the desease CRS (Can't Remember S***) who, can ONLY operate on UP TO 4 cylinders is starting to make fun or our 3 to 6 (sometimes 8) cylinder cars!! Don E; at least when we drop a cylinder we still operate at 84% as compared to your 75%!....The sky IS falling!
Rick C
Hey Joe, where have you been hiding........?
Rick Crawford

Hey Don E

Even if 3 of our cyl are not working we still can get somewhere, now if 3 of yours quit, we think that you will be DOR (dead on road).

You 4 bangers are always envious of a 6 cyl...quick name a prestious 4 cyl car past or present. Hmmm not many!!! But 6 Cyl rule...The 6er list includes Aston's up to DB6, XKE's, XK SS, D-Type, Jag XJ220, 300SL, Porsche 911, 959, Boxter's, BMW 3 series, or any of the classic Bimmers of the past 3.0, 635, M1, M6, Ferrari Dino's, AH 3000, NSX...the list can go on forever. Seems that many companies made a 4cyl as a junior version of the marque: 190SL vs 300SL; 914 vs 911; 944 vs 928; 2002 vs 3.0CSi; Honda S2000 vs NSX; MGB vs MGC; Sprite vs 3000; Spit vs TR6;

And finally at least our engine is not a tractor motor.

But we love you anyways Don and allow you on here even with only 4cyl :)
Steven

OK guys, my "four banger" is a TR4A-IRS so more than half of the parts are the same as yours and I must say "the better parts"! I grew up on Hillmans, Sunbeams and Jags. I have owned two TR4's, a TR3 and a GT6 now in my old age I have gone back to my childhood with a 4A.... O'h and try to bash a 4 banger, name the most famous race engine there was..... Offenhauser - 4 cylinder! I still like 6's just not the body!!! Steve Yott
Steve Yott

OK I will confess, My real every day car is a 4 banger, Acura CL I would have bought the V6 'cept it comes as auto only. My previous car was also a 4 banger but it put all V6 and some V8's to shame Mazda MX6turbo...with 195ft/lbs of torque at 2200 RPM it was never lacking and that is 1988 technology!!!.

I do like the TR4 body as much as the TR6 so to me the ultimate TR would be a TR250 or better yet a TR5...best of both worlds
Steven

What's this!!! Now we have these PRE 6 guys bangin' our body style...what is this world coming to?
Be careful Steve Y or we will start to make fun of that bulge on your bonnett!

Mark, look what you have started
Rick C
Rick Crawford

Heck with bulge on the bonnet, you should see the one on my belly!! Too much ale drinking thinking about how to make it faster!

Steve Yott
Steve Yott

Remember guys - The thread here is not "Bench bleed Steve's belly".

Take it easy on us decrepid old 4-cyl owners.

Don Elliott
Don Elliott

This thread was discussed between 16/09/2002 and 20/09/2002

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