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Triumph TR6 - Best buy of the summer-what would you do with it?
Its been a while since I have posted, business travel has taken all my time this summer. One good thing that has happened though is a rust free frame found in a field sitting on top of a Volvo station wagon. There is some light surface crust that comes off with a light sanding of 100 grit paper. (cut and paste the addresses to see the pics)
Both cruciforms are solid and the diff pin at the perch is not cracked.
Has anyone ever seen gussets on the front of the radiator pan or was this added by the owner?
Are these tow loops stock, my '74 does not have them and they seem to be too far inboard to be effective.
Finally, what would you guys do to a naked frame? This is my chance to take care of business before the body gets mounted.
|I think the holes are tie downs for the rail cars and ships in shipping to US.|
sounds like a great find! Both the gussets and the tow loops are stock at least to the late model cars.
As for refinishing it... how deep are your pockets? Look in the archives for this info.
1. Check hidden areas for rust bugs... particularly the trailing arm mounts, lower crusiform, and rear horns. Use a wire to "feel" inside of the embosings on the lower crusiform... any holes up into the main rails means it needs to be removed and repaired. Look for Any bulging in lapped metal as this will indicate a rust situation.
2. Grind out and reweld the suspension mount areas and the diff. mount frame... factory welds were often poor and incomplete.
3.Go with media blasting , then powdercoating if you can afford it. POR15 is an excellent chassis paint, however, and can be applied by yourself over top of a sanded/wire brushed frame. Commercial chassis paints are also good over top of etchant and filler primers.
4. Fluid film/ waxoyl the inside of all box sections.
I have poked in every corner and have found no rust thru.Even where the trailing arms meet the cruciform and outer side rails there is no rust. I will have it blasted but am debating on a full gavanization dip (like a boat trailer) or powder coat. After the exterior is done, I was wondering if expanding foam would be better inside the frame(no UV breakdown to worry about). Has anyone weldeded a solid plate on top of the diff mount to strengthen the pins? How thick can I go before I bottom out on the underside of the body?
I find this amazing since my 74's frame is a mess. I can literally squeeze/ collapse the trailing arm with my hand.
|Tom, want to sell the front half? Just kidding.|
I would take the frame to the chemical dippers and have them remove all surface rust inside and out.
Weld up any mods that you are going to do, then coat with Por15 and then some kind of rust oil sprayed inside to keep it perfect.
|I would wonder if the galvanic process might cause brittlness in the frame???... and it aint black... |
With regard to the foam infill.... don't...moisture is certain to find its way between the metal and the foam and cause excellerated rust out. I like the idea of having the frame dipped to cleanout the inside but am leary as to how well the chemicals are flushed /neutalized between close fitting members.
Remember, the finished car is not likely to ever see much rain let alone salted roads so a bullet proof restoration is not as important as are weld improvements, hidden gusetting, reinforcing plates etc. If you choose to reinforce the diff. mount apart from boxing in the lower section of the pins, a plate plug welded and fillet welded on top of the cross member need only be out of 10g material.... time might be better spent to re & re the lower crusiform and custom build one out of 10g with 3/16 x1" cross bands welded to it and simulating the original embossings.
Best wishes on the frame work Tom,
What year is that frame from? I looked at my 73 and I don't have the four gussets on the front of the radiator pan that you mentioned as shown in the fourth picture. I don't have the metal piece that runs on top and perpendicular to the gussets either. I do have the loops... or tow hooks. Maybe the gussets were added in later years.
Great looking frame. Now the fun begins.
|HP Henry Patterson|
I don't have the four gussets on my 74 rad frame either, nor the tie down loops in the rear. Could this be from a 75 or 76 frame?
I know when I towed my car out of the garage, I hooked onto the loop attached to the rad shield and cracked the core of my radiator (must have twisted) so this is a definite improvment.
My '76 has the gussets on the radiator shield just like the pics. A buddy is selling a '75 and I'll have a look at his for the gussets and post back. May narrow down the year for you. Congrats on a great find! Bet Les Gilholme would be happy with that one, right Les?
That's great. It's either a 75 or 76. I remember reading somewhere that the frames had been continually updated as problem areas were found. I think they eventually strengthened the lower wishbone mounts, for example. 75 or 76 should have all of the updates.
Now stop working so hard at buisness and get to work on the TR6!
|HP Henry Patterson|
|Hi - I'm new to the board as I'm sure some have noticed.|
Although I'm not anywhere near my car to check, I'm fairly certain my 74.5 has those front gussets.
|Galvanizing dip? Great idea, but paint may not stick to it very well (oops, already mentioned). It would look great in my opinion unpainted.|
Chris, maybe he'll sell you his other front half.
|Yes Bob I would like that one. |
Well today I am off to the UK for 3 weeks vacation, my wife found an e-mail detailing a scrapyard in the Cheltnam area that have some 6's, and now I owe her a lunch by a pub on a river in the Cotswolds.
I have not done any work on the car this summer except for rewiring.
Hear from you all when I get back, for those in the know, "Top Down 6 Vol 2" playlist will be out in the fall and hopefully be available for Xmas.
"Bring the 6 back to life"
Have a good vacation. Look forward to Top Down 6 Vol 2.
This thread was discussed between 01/08/2006 and 04/08/2006
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