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Triumph TR6 - Body Shims & how to install them??

Within the next week or two I'll be putting my Tr6 body back onto the frame. Therefore I have a few questions for those of you who have done this before.

1. How do you insure that the chassis/body shims and pads stay in place when positioning the body on the frame? (I was thinking of using fishing line??)

2. How do you decide that shims need to be added or removed? (Door gaps? or other places of measurement)

3. When adding or removing shims, is it just a matter of jacking up that specific area of the body?

4. In there any "settling" procedure of the body (bouncing the car up and down) beforing making any shim changes or when tightening down the body?

Just a few pts

- I have marked all of the shim locations - so I know which shim/pad came form which mounting pt.

- All suspension bushings have been replaced with poly ones - but bold have not been torqued down yet.- so the frame may not be sitting "properly" yet.

Sorry for the long-winded questions - I just want to do this right the first time!

Thanks in advance,

Aivars Berzins
Aivars Berzins

When I did mine I put all new shims (aluminum) and
rubbers back the way I found them and didn't find any need to adjust. I sqeezed alittle silicone sealant
on them the day before putting the body back on to hold them in place while I put the bolts in place.
Christopher Trace

Hi Aivars

You have all the squeek pads glued on the frame? Put some type of padding between your door gaps if painted.

First make sure all the welded nuts are in place and you have chased and anti-siezed the threads in all. Your wrenching arm will thank you if you don't have air wrenches. You will be loosening and tightening lots.

Don't know how much of your body is complete wings etc. and what you are using to lift? Inside outside? If inside mark some chalk lines on the floor to make a nice square box. Then center the frame I prefer on totaly leveled corner corner jackstands at spring points but if you wish on wheels on ramps leveled and blocked. You have to get under and over and want the frame flexed on wheel points. I like about 16" from the outside pads for lines. When the body is on. Equal distance side to side is hard to gauge and there is play in holes. That way wheel tilt won't screw you up as well. If floor is flat good if not use a square and tape plus a level to get accurate measure to many various points along side. Then visually check all your bolt holes and fitting trunk lid on up. And squat down and eyball your sides from back to front etc. Do this check often when adjusting door and fender gaps.

For all the smaller shims etc. I like Chris's method. Whatever works for you.

My method to hold tub top pads in place is run 2 kitty corner bolts up from bottom at each of the 4 main tub pads and set top pads on. also gives an alignment target setting it down. Run one up higher than others gives a pivot point. Will also tell you early if you have a square problem. Get some donor bolts easy to bitch the thread.

Ok your on. Put in the other washers spacers pads etc. if not done and loose fit other bolts. Now take tape and square up to your lines.

Take 9 bags of sand 4 each side and 1 on the shelf to simulate gas tank. Put spare in trunk etc. Take a look at your door gaps. Sitting loose in most cases they will be tighter at top? thats good. Tighten down the main four a bit then back front etc. etc. check gaps all the time. If you need to extra shim always replace equally both sides. If the body is cocked cornerwise to frame you will have problems.

I hope this is not confusing as I have mentioned before I am a better at doing than explaining. I have probably missed lots but this should get body back on without too much problems. I don't like using people for weights they lie about them especialy if its your better half? Or move and go for a pee at the wrong time. Sand is great and then you can build a sandbox for some kid.

I spent 3 months in your province in the early 70s. Probably the most ideal setting for a TR or human being. Hope that causeway hasn't changed things too much and you still have the nice little roads. I imagine though the Churches don't throw fresh lobster suppers all summer for a $1.50 anymore either?

Let me know how your making out. Hope this Ice storm peters out before it hits you.


Bill Brayford

I held my pads in place with a "twist-um" normally used to tie garbage bags closed. After the bolts were in, I un-twisted them and pulled them out.

Make sure your engine, tranny and rear axle are all in before tightening it all down. If not, you're wasting your time, because you can get perfect gaps, then when you put in the engine, tranny and rear axle, you will have different weights everywhere and your gaps will be all off.

If it's not sitting on the tires on the floor, make sure that your jack-stands are directly in line with the front and rear wheel centerlines - directly under the axles. If you don't do this, you will have perfect gaps till you lower the car onto its tires and then you'll find your gaps will be all off.

For the doors, get some clear plastic tubing about 1/4" or 3/8" and slit it down the length, Then snap it into the edges of the doors. The plastic tubing will protect your paint till it's all gapped as you like it.

Don Elliott, 1958 TR3A
Don Elliott

Hi Aivars
I stuck the shims & pads to the chassis with a small amount of impact adhesive and three of us lifted the bare shell on without any problems. I used the same amount of shims & pads as had been in when I dismantled the car and didn't have any great problems with the panel gaps although I would agree with Don that the engine & gearbox etc should be in before setting up the panel gaps, in fact I would say it is easier to put the engine & gearbox on the chassis before lifting the body on rather than doing it after and risking damaging paint. If you need to alter shims if the body settles a bit after use it is easy enough to jack the body & make the alterations.
Good luck with the job
r algie

Thanks to all of you for your excellent suggestions!!

My frame/chassis does have all of the running gear back into it - also all the bushings, front end, shocks and brakes & plumbing are all finished and installed.

As I suggested, I'm still about a week or two away of installing the body - I'm finishing up all of the engine compartment stuff such as paint, installing brake& clutch masters etc.............

In my own words is this what can be done?:

So for example - at the rear of my door the gap is wider at the top than at the bottom. By installing extra shims to the body mounting pts rearward of the door will reduce this gap. Is this correct?

If so, would I have to shim up ALL of the mounting pts. from the back of the door - rearward?? (there are at least 3-4 on each side behind the door)And I would also assume the ones farther back would need more shims?

Aivars Berzins

5 if you count the one to the torque tube. Yes to your questions. All body mount bolts need to be shimmed and torqued tight equally. Tin will flex. Weakest point in a roadster is the tub.

As I mentioned before I don't know how much work has been done to frame or body while off. If it was minimal and good original. You should be OK? I use the weight method after seeing too many good paint jobs ruined. Gives you a safety measure when large people sit down and close the door.

Good luck let us know
Bill Brayford

Hi Bill,

Thanks for the clarification. Regarding your first reponse- PEI is a great place to live, work & raise kids. Moved here from Grimsby, Ont about 10 years ago and never have really regreted the decision. Once you overlook the smallness of the province & the occasional accompanying

I look forward to driving my 6 this summer - as I've never driven it yet - just spent the last 2 1/2 years getting it going. BTW those $1.50 lobster suppers --- use a multiplier of 20 to get the new price!

thanks again

Aivars Berzins
Aivars Berzins

This thread was discussed between 04/04/2003 and 06/04/2003

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