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Triumph TR6 - Brake Modifications - Again

I am currently considering a modification to the brake system on my 1972 TR6, not entirely due to the need for better brakes, but also because I have a modified ( bored out ) master cylinder with oversize kit that unforunately has seen better days. I have read with interest the Toyota mods with the .875 rear cylinders and this appears to be the way to go for better brakes. However, being somewhat of a miser, I am reluctant to pay over $200 for a new master cylinder. I have done some preliminary checks at the local junk yard, and have found a few booster master cylinder combos that I beleive would work just fine at much less cost both now and in the future. Has anyone out there made a modification like this, and if so what did you use and what problems did you encounter. I am trying to stay with parts that I can get at the local parts houses, so I don't have to order everything. Thanks in advance for any and all advise.
Arnold Newton

Hi Arnold

Never tried on a 6 but I would imagine anything is possible. I have modified a few old cars with junkyard systems but always grabbed pretty much the whole system. Mainly to compare applied area master cylinder and work area slave. Hydraulics are designed to work within certain pressures. No fun doing a panic stop with the seals blown. If you have good brake line tools fitting can be done. Your main concern will be unknown line pressure I think.
Bill Brayford

Hi Arnold - have you considered having the m/cyl re-sleeved with a stainless steel insert? This should be possible even with an 'over-bored' unit.
The price should also be a lot less than a new one and the finished product far superior. I did my brake and clutch m/cyls, rear slave cyls and front calipers all with stainless sleeves which are good forever!!

The price here to do a brake m/cyl with s/s sleeve to original bore, new kit (seals etc), all re-assembled, is USD125.

Even with postage both ways it's cheaper and better than a new one!!!!

I thought about the Toyota (and other) conversions. I got the discs faced and with some good Lucas 'street' pads, I quite pleased with that for the moment ( Spring has sprung!!)

Roger H

For anyone that has been interested in this endeavor, I can now tell you that not only is it a fairly easy modification, but well worth the time and effort involved to get rid of the overpriced Girling master cylinder. I made the swap out using a 1988 Nissan Maxima power booster and master cylinder combo. Now parts are readily available at any autoparts store for about a quarter of the price. The big bonus is that I have owned three TR6's and I now have the brakes that should have been there from day one. While I have not done a scientific study, there is no doubt that the stoping distance has been greatly reduced. Now maybe the Toyota caliper modification might be worth pursuing.
Arnold Newton

Hi Arnold

What all did you change and what did you run into? Very interested in your findings. Gather you left all the wheel calipers and slaves original.
Bill Brayford

Hi Bill,

It is a fairly straight forward swap. What I did was do some research to try to find a comparable bore size master cylinder. There are a lot out there to choose from, including at least one after market manufacturer that looked pretty interesting. $$ My first choice after two trips to the local wrecking yard was a 1983 - 1984 Chevy S-10 or GMC S-15 power booster / master cylinder combo. However, I only found two, and both were pretty rough. My second choice was the 1988 Maxima. This is a four port master cylinder ( two front and two rear ) that for easy of installation, I tied the two front and the two rears together between the master cylinder and the equalizing valve assembly. The power booster is only about an inch larger in diameter so it makes a clean installation. You will need to fab a new spacer assembly to mount between the booster and the firewall, as well as drill new mounting holes for the booster assembly. I also had to file out the center opening a small amount to make room for the plunger assembly to have free stroke. You will also need to redrill your brake pedal, or as I did fab a new attachment assembly. A good saturday project, with a total cost of under $ 100.00. For now I have left the original calipers and rotors on the front and the stock drums on the back, and still the difference is like day and night. At some point I plan to do the Toyota caliper mod with tbe cross drilled rotors on the front, and still unsure of what I plan to do the rear.
Arnold Newton

Hey Arnold_ Great tip. Any pics to help document?
Don Kelly

Thanks for the update Arnold Please keep us posted on the ongoing testing. I'm doing frame off on mine "slowly" and any mods. that improve are well worth the effort.
Bill Brayford

Sorry to say that I do not have any pictures at this time, and since for the next 3 to 4 weeks I am working 12+ hours a day, it may be awhile before I can get some. So far, I am very pleased with the mod. I just wish I would have done it sooner.
Arnold Newton

This thread was discussed between 10/10/2003 and 29/10/2003

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