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Triumph TR6 - Car dies when choke pushed in
|My 74 TR6 has sat in the garage for about 2 months without being started. I went in abut a month ago and got it to start up without too much cranking. As it warmed up and I pushed the choke in, it just died when the choke was in about 1/2 way. Been starting is up over the past couple of days thinking it just needed some run in to loosen things up but it is still dying. |
If I adjust the choke until it is just ready to stall and then push the accelerator...it dies.
It was running fine before I let it sit. Any idea what happened.
|My first guess is that one of the carb needle valves is stuck closed. Maybe a rap on the side of the float bowl with a screw driver handle....|
|Brent, Started typing but couldn't figure how to say that. Prolly all gummed up?|
Thanks. I didn't even think about tapping on the carb. Been checking vacuum lines. Hope is isn't gummed up. They were rebuilt not more than 2 years ago by professionals.
|It's a 74....no hope. Junk it. : 0|
|Gene - Try starting it with the air filters off. While it's running lift the carb air valve/piston one at a time. If nothing much happens that's the one the no gas.|
|Oh yea - make sure the cable end hasn't slipped out of one of the chokes.|
|hey Gene I have the exact problem,let me know how you made out|
|Used a carburettor cleaner ( spray and gas additive ). It got a bit better but it looks like a rebuild. I've got half a tank left so I'll run it out and see if anything improves but I am not hopeful.|
|BTW, I forgot to mention that I ordered the adjustment tool from TRF. It sure seems like it is running too lean so I thought I'd give and adjustment a try before ripping the things apart. However, the rebuild is tempting since the EGR control valve is on the front carb and not the back. Someone messed this up before I got my baby.|
|my car is a 69, it was running rich for quite sometime.Before I put it in the garage for the winter it was running rough almost like it was running on 5 cylinders when i gave it gas, at idle it was fine. I changed the diaphrams to no avail, I had to start it with starting fluid and once it started had the same problem as you,push the choke in and it stalled. I dont want to take it apart either, keep me posted|
|I pitched that "space alien" as soon as I got my 74. I don't see the need to "re burn" my exhaust gasses. More then likely it wasn't working worth a damn anyway and a good tuned non EGR TR6 is going to put out less emissions the an old crappy EGR plumbed system.|
The 69 has a retard valve that opens when the carbs are at idle. It is located under the formost carb. If the vac line comes off, you might get the problem you describe. I have had that happen. Yours may have been modified since though and this valve may be gone.
Engine Timing and carb adjustments are critical and feed off each other. I found I had to go back and forth between adjusting the carb and the timing until I got the car running as per the spec.
You may need to adjust the choke cams.
Invest in a timing light, carb air flow meter, needle/mixture adjusting screw, mixture test kit (watching the combustion in the cylinder) and play with the settings until you get to spec.
I set mine 5 years ago and haven't had to touch them since. Knock on wood. (it took me I think 6 or 8 hours to get it right)
These carbs are very sensitive to atmospheric conditions as well. I can notice a difference in running on sunny warm days and hazy humid days and coolish days. You probably want to adjust them on a typical day for your geographic area to get the most consistent performance.
|Thanks all. Just invested in the adjusting tool and the air flow meter. Saturday is coming and I'll work on it some more then.|
|How hard is it to turn the mixture adjusting screw? The tool seems to engage everything but it is not turning in either direction. Perhaps this is the problem.|
|Not sure Gene- my 69 does not have the adjusting type of needle but a fixed needle. But I believe there is a set screw- have you loosened that?|
|Gene - They should turn fairly easily, but not "loose". There could be a varnish build-up in the needle retainer binding things up. If you can't get it to rotate either way after several minutes of back & forth it's time to pull the air valve and check out the needle.|
|They are free! Took your advice this morning, Brent, and carefully but insistently put pressure. Each, in turn, finally started moving. |
Lots of rain today so I can't open the doors in the garage to try to tune them. It will have to wait until Friday.
I'll be back Friday night with my next whine.
|I got back to the carb problem yesterday. I've got the adjustment as rich as it will go: each carb is adjusted all the way in. When I lift the air valves, the engine stalls which the manual claims means it is too lean. |
Engine now can run at normal idle RPM but very rough and still with the choke half out.
Any other "non invasive" tricks to try?
|It sounds like you need some fresh gasoline. Do you trust it enough to get on the road?|
|First thing I thought of. Put new gas in just after this started. Tank was almost empty because of a leak in the gas line. Car is up on jackstands right now and not road-worthy at the moment.|
Have to admit that things are getting better each time I start it up. I can now get it to idle, albeit roughly, at 800 RPM. Need choke out still but I couldn't even manage that last week.
I'm becoming convinced it is gunk
|Gene- e mail me. |
donnkelly at comcast net
|Bump - Gene, did you get things sorted out?|
|Gene, where are YOU?|
What about syncing the 2 carbs? What about timing? what about fuel filter?
This thread was discussed between 17/01/2011 and 22/04/2011
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