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Triumph TR6 - carb problems?
|My car died,thought it was the fuel pump by the way it was acting,also it was the only thing I haven't replaced so I replaced it.It is not the problem,fuel is dripping out of the carbs(especially the front one),so I replaced the float valves thinking they were getting stuck and not stopping the fuel delivery.That didn't solve the problem,I've replaced the plugs,they were soaked but the car won't even start now.PLEASE HELP!!!British car show in ten days and I planned to be in attendece.Any advice will be appreciated.The car was running great with no warning signs the day earlier.It is a 72 with 74000 miles and the dreaded Strombergs.|
The points ( contact breaker) can fail suddenly leaving you with no spark- and still appear to be OK to casual inspection. Sounds like you have enough fuel around, watch you dont set it alight when looking for that spark.
Did you check the floats?
Sounds like your floats are not shutting off the new fuel needle valves. If nothing else has been changed on the engine or fuel system it sounds like it time to replace the floats.
If you have spark compression and fuel the engine should at least start. Please give more info on exactly what happened at start of problem.
|Thanks for the replies,the car was a little hard to start,it usually starts right up,ran great,took it on the highway but when I took the exit(sweeping right turn)it sputtered a little.Then as I drove it got worse,wouldn,t idle,I pulled into my parking lot and it died.It seemed to act like it wasn't getting gas so I went ahead and put a fuel pump in.I assumed that's what it was(I know what it means when you assume),so it limped home firing on maybe 4 or 5 (I couldn't leave the car not a very safe part of town and I have a spoiler so I couldn"t tow it)I took the carbs off and put new float valves adjusted and inspected(floats looked fine).I am going to put new cap, points,rotor,condenser and plugs and see what happens.I have new wires.Thanks again for the help,will write to let you know what happens.|
|Well I got my car started!!!I did a major tune,let it dry out for a couple days and it started but still didn't run properly.The problem that caused all of my headaches was that I put new Longflow air filters on and the gaskets were not cut out enough so it was covering the little square hole above the carb throat.I cut it out,balanced the carbs and it runs great.It was my fault I put the filters on in a hurry and didn't check it out properly,again I ASSUMED they were ok.Thanks again for the suggestions,I am off to the 19th annual English Motoring Conclave this weekend.Last year there were approx 300 cars!|
I had the exact problem last month, gas pouring out of the front carb. I made it home (driving fast uses the fuel and it can't pour out) and discovered the rubber tip on the grose jet which regulates the fuel input had broken off allowing the bowl to constantly fill up.
|I recently bought a '74 TR6 with ZS carbs. It was running very rich because the mixture control was not correctly adjusted. I reseated them and adjusted the fast idle etc; however, when I tried to adjust the mixture I found that I couldn't make the adjustment. The adjustment needle in the dashpot seemed to be seized and couldn't be turned. Any idea why this happened? The car is running very lean now.|
First off I presume you have the correct ZS carb adjusting tool. It sounds like you need to take the top part of the carbs apart. Possibly the rubber O ring is history and the adjusting screw is seized. This is a slight possibility as the only things there are a spring type locking washer, an o-ring and the adjusting screw. Maybe the needle assembly is seized in place and will not allow the screw to be turned. Maybe the metering needle itself is not located properly and the retaining screw is jamming it from turning. What ever, you need to disassemble to find out why it will not turn.
Go to the Archives (2002) and you will find a thread titled "Tech-Tip Correction"....Aug 19,2002. (Remember you must register yourself on this BBS in order to access the archives). I have a link there that shows the procedure for the removal of the adjusting screw and the o-ring replacement. The link takes you to The VTR..go to maintenance handbook and down to the Z.S. Tech Tip. ( as you can see there is plenty of other stuff there). Bill you may already be aware off this stuff but not knowing you... well I offer it up as help. You might want to follow my procedure as to the removal. I have done his method on an old carb and well it is a paper weight now. The o-ring can be purchased at any auto supply. If you do not want to go this far then at least you are at the point of putting some WD 40 into both ends of the adjusting screw. If this works then with the needle back in, you should clearly see needle movement as you adjust the screw (max 3.5 turns).
Hope this helps.
|Thanks Rick, I'll give it a try. I was wondering myself if someone might have incorrectly tightened the grub screw or something like that. I didn't want to take the carbs apart quite yet since I may still have a week or two to drive (although I doubt it with the weather we've had). I'll let you know how I make out. bv|
This is off topic but do they still run the ice racing on the lake. I am going back to the sixtys. A friend and myself at U of M picked up an old Healy and a Volvo I think 544 battered but they ran and we went racing. With huge snowdrifts and cheap used studded tires that was the most fun I have ever had. I originate in Northern Sakatchewan and was used to the western cold then. Not any more, been in Southern Ontario since 72.
Luck on your Carbs.
This thread was discussed between 04/09/2002 and 04/10/2002
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