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Triumph TR6 - Carb tags
|On the chance that someone has an extra set of ZS 175 carburettors gathering dust in their shop, might you also have the small brass tags that are affixed to the top cover of the carbs. They are differently numbered for front and rear and I need both...the tags, not the carbs. Reasonable price and reimbursement for mailing. Thanks.|
|Going to give it another try?|
|Yeah, Don, |
I'm the eternal optimist:-)
The optimism paid off. Got a phone car from Dale in Toronto today. The carb tags are in the mail!! How's that for a generous spirit? Maybe a dram or three of a fine single malt will return the favor should he find his way to Rocket City.
|Hay all us Ontarioites are kind generious people|
Oh still looking for the brake handle button rod or what ever you call it.
The 2 tags can be cleaned up with brass cleaner and the L tag is the back carb, the R is obviously the fron one.
Have ye had one too many bubbly pops?
You're right, of course. I've found all of you north of the parellel to be kind and generous folks.
Progress is slow but greater than zero. Home renovations are nearing some degree of completion so hopefully after our Thanksgiving holiday, I'll be able to get back to some body work. Initially I intended to replace the driver's floor pan, then decided that only the front 25% or so really needed replacing, but after careful examination, I find several small rust through spots along the side against the rocker panel and wonder if I'd not be better served to replace the entire thing. Do you know if the welds are generally assessible so that I can find and drill out or grind down the spot welds? If so, the entire piece should come out rather easily and the new fit in much better than cutting and welding in. Whatd ye think?
|Doug I did not need to do any body work on my car and it was'a' long time ago I did the floor pans on my MG midget. I think it would be best to replace the entire pan since purchase of the replacement piece is the entire thing. Why do half the job? |
As far as if spot welds, I am sure there is the proper answer on this BBS.
PS. CDN beer is REAL beer.
With the carb tags and your hand brake piece, I'm now only lacking the original color of the scissors jack:-)
Do the entire pan. If I remember correctly, you do not have to replace the sills.
There are a ton of spot welds. You will need to separate the 90 degree bend of the floor pan with the outer sill under the car as well as the lip of the inner sill along the inside.Keep the car on the frame so you can align the mounting holes. Cut the old floor out in sections with a sawzall (between frame openings) and use a 4" cut off wheel + chisel along the edges. The pan is brazed to the driveshaft tunnel and in a spot near the B pillar. The floor gets "folded up" behind the rear package shelf so it needs to be removed from the outside. There is also a tricky spot at the firewall where the lip is hidden by the frame.
Took me about 3 weeks (but I also replaced the sills.)
Thanks. Good advice.
|Floor jack is metal color.|
|He he, Don what'd I do for entertainment before you? |
Mine had some faint kinda aquamarine/bluish/greenish paint remnants remaining before I bead blasted it to clean metal and primed it. When I asked around, the most common answer I received was it was whatever color odd can of paint they happened to have the most of on the production line that day!! Even from those who had their jack from new, there was no consensus of the "proper" color. Guess I'll settle for basic black!!
This thread was discussed between 12/11/2007 and 15/11/2007
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