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Triumph TR6 - Chassis Pics
|Happy New year to the TR6 gang out there! I just set up a Photobucket account and thought I would send a few pics of my slow progress on the "6". Like doug I have gone a bit crazy with powder coating lots of parts... all the suspension components front and rear, brake calipers, and some engine parts.|
These were taken last spring and I can report that progress on the body has only been moderate with the hope of much greater progress by this time next year.... perhaps even complete by this summer.
The chassis has every bearing, seal ,and bushing replaced. The frame had the swing arm supports lower cruciform and rear most section replaced. I also reinforced the front cross member internally by plug welding an angle iron to a 3" strip of 10g that replaced the lower plate. The cruciform was CNC plasma cut from 10g and has 1/4"x1" '"straps" crossing it to emulate the original embossing. I also cut and welded small gussets to the inside of this chassis section...you can see them , sort of, in one of the photos. All the hydraulics have been completed now including new hand formed lines. The engine sports a no-lead-head shaved 1.1mm , moderate road cam by Shadbolts, 1.55:1 roller rockers, oil cooler and thermostat, electronic ignition and sport coil, .020" over pistons, etc. My latest task is to complete the SS dual exaust system and am looking for information on muffler designs..?
I am hoping for a nice reliable classic out of this effort...qualifies for collector plates and will be fun to tour in during the summer months. This continues to be an enjoyable pursuit and I glean a great deal from the submissions and feed back on this forum. Thanks to all.
'76 TR6 CF 57639 UO
Very nice looking. When you go to shows you will need to take a mirror with you to show off the bottom.
Looks like you will be needing to observe "new" engine break in methods.
|Looks sharp Rob.|
I like the added touch of having the Gear Shift Knob in place.
Did you have much steel work work to do on the frame?
|Michael S. Petryschuk|
Never mind my question on the steel work. I didn't fully read your post before I made the comment.
|Michael S. Petryschuk|
|Hello Mike and Rick|
The gear shift is in place as parking brake at this point. I have read ALL the latest in engine break-in and appreciate those who researched and input...I will be observing these precautions. I am still not sure which transmission fluid to use , however....I just know that the stuff I first used was not recommended and had to be drained out. I will reread the archives on this matter.
The chassis looks beautiful. I guess my MO is the opposite of yours, I am working on the body first then the frame. I have a couple of questions.
Did you sand blast the frame prior to powder? If so, how did you protect the metal between the time it was blasted until it arrived at the PC's? Did the PC e-coat the frame, or zinc phosphate dip prior to powder?
How did they get powder in between the upper and lower cruciforms?
Did they also coat the trailing arms, if they did, where you able to just mask off the bearings or did they get removed?
Sorry for all the questions, just looking for a little guidance here.
|Just thought of something else.. how did you get the body off without removing the carbs, don't they sit directly above the right fender?|
|Hi Tom et al, |
the chassis is not powder coated... it was sand blasted, primed and painted with dupont's chassis black paint. All new parts were primed with weld through zinc primer prior to assembly/welding.
Most of the gross body work ( rockers, floors, rear valance) was completed before the body and chassis were separated....the drive train and suspension were out, however. After the separation I commenced repair of the chassis... which was not in terrible condition but was in need of some attention. NOTE: ANY swelling of overlapping sections such as the cruciform indicate subsurface corrosion and should be repaired.... there was NO metal left on the bottom of the center rails that are over-plated by the lower cruciform yet all looked good and "probing" showed no signs of what (didn't) lay beneath.
Personally I fell that the zinc plating of a chassis may not be a good idea as it does surface harden the steel and may cause increased fracturing of the structure in the long haul. A good chassis paint is adequate although powdercoating would be very nice too. The rear trailing arms and diff cover were PC'ed in silver. In retrospect I may have clear coated in PC after bead blasting those parts as I did with the intake manifold... which looks great. All Bushings and plugs were removed for powder coating and replaced afterwards.Here are a few shots of the components prior to installation onto the chassis. Note the drain plug in the differential! If you PC the diff. preheat the main housing (entirely emptied of course) for about 30 min. before spraying with PC... it will help to off gas the cast iron thus reducing any porosity in the PC.
Hope this helps,
This thread was discussed between 07/01/2007 and 08/01/2007
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