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Triumph TR6 - clutch engages with pedal near floor
|We've got a '74 TR6, and the clutch begins to engage when the pedal just begins to come off the floor. I've checked the travel of the slave cylinder rod, and it's about 5/8" when the pedal is fully depressed. The clevis pin is in the middle hole. We've got no problem shifting into first (even while moving) or reverse. Is this normal? Thanks, John|
I think the cross pin in the clutch shaft may be cracked. Thats quite common. But that's a maybe.
If it has always been that way since you have had the car? There are many after market clutch release bearings combinations etc that have been used. In that cars case may be normal? Where it engages is not a real concern.
5/8ths travel rules out hydraulics.
The TR6 clutch mechanism is marginal at the best of times, check all the pushrods, clevis pins etc for wear as a little wear in each of them adds up.
|I've been thinking of adding adjustments to the clutch master rod on my TR4. There is more clearance there than is needed. I have done this before with good results. Find a repair link (this isn't the correct name for it, I don't think) that's the right inside diameter, and a couple jam nuts with the same thread. It is a hex outside, threaded inside thing. The Ace hardware store here has them. Cut the rod and thread it, leaving enough on each end to thread the link and narrow nuts on. You could maybe grind some off the ends of the link if you have to. Put the assembly back on and adjust all the play out, leaving plenty of threads in each end. Then adjust some play back in so the MC can release the pressure when you let up on the pedal (not pump up the clutch). I think it's something like .030, the older TR's had this adjustment. You measure the play with a feeler guage between the jam nut and the link on the MC side. You can turn the end of the rod that goes into the boot to adjust it, letting the jam nut go along. When the play is all out, get .030 or whatever between the jam nut and link by turning only the nut. Then back the rod out until the nut touches the link. You got .030 clearance now. Tighten both jam nuts. If it takes a lot to tighten them, repeat the process until you get the hang of it.|
As I'm typing, I'm thinking "There must be a higher quality link available, get a grade 5 if you can" or higher. But I never had trouble with the hardware store version. Be safe.
|Thanks for all your thoughts! I've only had the car a year, and the PO said it was that way when he got it (from Triumphs Only) a few years prior to that. I've got the interior removed now, and thought that this would be the time to address it. I'm a little leary of taking the transmission of at this point, though. Tom's idea bears some more thinking, too...thanks for all the input. I think I'll let it be for now, and if it turns out to be the infamous tapered pin, I'll deal with it as an "emergency" then. John|
My clutch engages low as well. I'm not dealing with it until it becomes a problem.
We're still in a race to see who gets their interior in first! (I still haven't dealt with the carbs (not the food kind)).
Don from Jersey
Another thing that will move the release point further up is to replace the 0.7" master cylinder with an earlier 0.75" master cylinder [assuming it hasn't one fitted already], it gives a slightly heavier pedal though. I would doubt very much if your pin has broken, normally if it's broken you have dificulty getting 1st & reverse.
I had the same problem that I fought with for quite awhile. When I first got the car; before I knew their quirks I replaced the clutch. This didn't help much. Turned out it was a little bit of everything. I replaced the clutch shaft, shaft bushings, throwout bearing holder, fork pins, clevis pins, welded and redrilled clutch pedal hole etc. With every tolerance back to new the clutch height is perfect. As good as any other modern car.
|Papa always said "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". I'm on my 14th TR6 and they all have released about 1/2" to 1" off the floor even after repalcing everything. I'll go one step further- when it does start giving a problem, move the clevis to the top hole.|
|I have long legs, but even I have to stretch my toe a bit to get to the floor on these cars when I have the seat adjusted comfortably everywhere else. It would be nice to raise the engagement point a bit. Whether I get around to it or not is to be determined, hehe.|
This thread was discussed between 23/05/2004 and 24/05/2004
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