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Triumph TR6 - Clutch Fork Pin

At the risk of beating an old topic to death, I have a question about the clutch fork pin that is so often 'partially-sheared'. I've got the transmission out to replace CC60260LO's clutch and related mechanicals (thanks to Ed Dorsch of this BBS for the help.)

I read in one of the many articles/postings on this subject that a high-tensile-strength pin (available from Moss) should be used instead of the brass one usually found in this application. I know some people advocate an additional bolt, etc. but I wonder what other solutions BBS'ers have used with success.

Anyone care to share?

Thank in advance,

Charlie Smith
EC Smith

I've had the high tensile pin in for several years now - the brass one never lasted this long.

Brent B

If you find a supplier selling the'brass pin then run out of his door (or hang up). I would not consider anything but the high tensile pin. I only replaced the pin and did not do the extra drill with nut and bolt. I think this extra security measure was instituted by our fore bearers as a means of curring a brass pin problem. With the new pin, I think this problem has gone away. After saying this, it is up to you to decide on the extra nut and bolt installation.

On the same area, I do suggest that you replace the cross shaft end bushings and put 2 bushings either end. Lots of room for 2 bushings and not expensive,
Oh ya Charlie, have fun on the reinstall:).

Make sure that the bell housing is FLAT against the back engine plate before you crank her down. DO NOT use the bolts to "pull" the tranny into the back plate.
Rick C
Rick Crawford

You guys have to be kidding. Brass was never used for the fork pin, was it?
Berry Price
BTP Price

If not brass it was bronze.
Brent B

Brass, Bronze, Butter. All start with a "B" ----all have about the same shear strength value! Rick's advice is "right on". [Been there, done that ,etc.]

....luck Charlie!!!


They might as well be made from lead or aluminum as brass. I have never seen anything but steel pins.
BTP Price

I had a TR6 that broke 3 of these pins. When I bought the car it had a broken pin in it, which I replaced. The rear seal on the tranny started leaking so I pulled it and found a second broken pin. I pulled the tranny a third time to address clutch problems and found a third broken pin. They were all modern Moss pins. I cross drilled the fork and threaded the hole and put in a 1/4" fine thread bolt. No further problems. My current car has the fork welded to the cross shaft (I didn't do it), I hear this is a common fix. From experience I would say the pin needs a little help.

Don Ho

Hi to all on the BBS I rebuilt my mechanics last spring and I went for the high tensile nut and bolt through the shaft. I bought a bunch of suspension hardware (ie diff mounting nuts and custom machined washers complete front end hardware kit from a great guy on E-Bay His seller ID is Car11 Tr6 and he has built a few TR's and is into racing He also machines engine parts including fan pulleys etc. A great guy to deal with seems to love the TR hobby. I would strongly advise contacting him before reassembling a gearbox/clutch/suspension engine. Just my 2 cents worth E-Mail me @ OMEARAJC@ MOUNTAINCABLE.NET if you cant find him ( small letters) Regards John
John O'Meara

This thread was discussed between 01/05/2006 and 06/05/2006

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