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Triumph TR6 - Clutch creeps with the clutch in

My son has my 75 TR6. When he pushes the clutch pedal to the floor, the car still creeps along. Not at speed but it still moves.

He topped off the fluid and it still happens.

Any suggestions?


R Egge

The clutch ain't releasing

Broken pin??

Its a brand new clutch less than 500 miles
R Egge


Ensure the slave cylinder and push rod have been installed in the proper location as it sounds like the clutch was recently done. (has the problem been present since the clutch was replaced?)

I would then ensure the clutch slave is bled (no air)and the piston seal is in good shape Mine had a similar problem where air was managing to be sucked in around the slave cylnder piston because the diameter of the cylinder had grown too large and the seal was not able to compensate. And then the piston would not travel fully to disengage the clutch due to the presence of air

A new slave cylinder fixed the problem

Then check the clutch master cylinder for the same problem.

Another cause might be worn thrust bearings on the crank shaft and there is too much end play. When that happens the crankshaft moves forward enough to prevent full disengagement of the clutch. Check the crank end play.

If these things are all OK and don't fix the problem- you probably have to inspect the clutch release rod, pin and bearing as Don mused about. That means pulling out the tranny.

Michael Petryschuk

Was the pin redone when the clutch was done?


It sounds like the clutch is not fully releasing. Specifically it sounds like your hydralic pressure is not enough because of low presure (air??)or a mechanical problem (worn or broken parts).

I have copied an article on this subject from my data collection. This is not my work and no point saying it differently. I know this article is for non operational but most of it is a relavent check list.

"Ensure that the clutch hydraulics fluid level is correct, the system is properly bled, and there are no leaks.

Measure the lateral movement of the slave cylinder push rod as a function of full pedal movement. This should be about 5/8 of an inch. Note that the slave cylinder push rod should be in the center hole of the clutch shaft.
If the travel is not at least 5/8" then:

Inspect the hole in the pedal into which the master cylinder push rode connects. If this is ovalled out then it is likely that you are not developing enough travel at the input to the hydraulic system. For this case you have two options: 1) remove the pedal, brazen over the hole, and redrill a new hole; or 2) fashion an adjustable master cylinder push rod. I have implemented the latter with much success.

Check the condition of the plastic hose segment (between master and slave cylinders). I have heard of this expanding under certain conditions (namely a cheap replacement part which has weakened with age and heat). This can be measured with a micrometer as you depress the clutch, but if you suspect this hose it is easier to just replace it. (Also see a related article, Clutch Hose Problems.)

Make sure both the master and slave cylinders are working properly (may need to dismantle them to check the conditions of the rubber, piston, and bore.
At this point you have either found a problem which has returned your travel to ~5/8 " or had sufficient travel to start with. Since you are getting sufficient travel from the clutch hydraulics, the problem is inside the clutch:

Check for a broken taper pin. -- replace

Check for excessively worn clutch fork pins. -- replace

Check for excessive wear on the contact surface of the release bearing. --

Check for an excessively worn groove into the finger springs of the pressure plate (the point at which the release bearing makes contact) -- replace entire clutch

Check thickness of the drive disk ( I have experienced fraying of disintegration causing the disk to "swell" -- lesson learned is not to buy cheap clutch parts! ) -- replace entire clutch
At this point you have either found the problem or you're really frustrated.

Check for excessive crank shaft end float. -- see thread on thrust washers " This is a good check to do as severe engine damage can occur if you have excessive end float. I can send you an article on how to check for end float if you wish.

Good luck and let us know what you find out.


Rick Crawford

The simplest answer is normally the correct one. Stupidity runs in the family

1. I forgot my dad used to tell me to check the fluid level. He forgot and looking through his notes he had the same problem. IT RAN OUT of FLUID. My bad for forgetting.

2. My son added fluid when he had the problem. He didn't tell me that it was emply when he added the fluid.

Simple fix. Bleed the system and it was fine.

I love these old cars

Rusell..on the road again.

Now if I could only get the horn to work on my 58 MGA I would be all set.
R Egge

Russell, I had the same problem and it nearly drove me crazy. The taper pin was broken allowing the clutch to engage slightly. Did not find the real problem until after redoing the hydraulics and bleeding the system many times. Took it in to where I was working at the time and had it welded and of course it has not moved since. This may not be the recommended fix but it worked fine on my car.

Wayne Johnson
1976 TR6
WG Johnson

Haven't heard back from him, must have scared him off.
Prolly Rics fault

Russell, go to Buckeye Triumphs technical page and there is an article explaining how to remove the taper pin.

Wayne Johnson
1976 TR6
WG Johnson

Wayne- Looks like he's got it fixed

Sorry for not letting you guys what the problem was.


1. I forgot my dad (original owner) told me to always check the clutch fluid level.

2. My son didn't tell me the fluid level was that low (empty)

Bleed the system (in fact flushed the system) and back on the road in an hour.

Thats the kind of fix I like.

Sooooo glad I didn't need to pull the tranny.

Another tr6 back on the road.

R Egge

This thread was discussed between 03/06/2010 and 08/06/2010

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