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Triumph TR6 - Clutch Problem

Just turned the key on the TR6 (70) after a 2 and half year refurbish job.
Good news...it started right up
Bad news...can't shift into any gear with the engine running.
Won't even go into 1-4, will grind when attempting reverse.
With engine off, shifts fine.
Bled the MC several times...no help

What am I missing?
(besides more hair on my head)

DS
Dennis Silance

I meant to say...
I bled the slave cylinder several times...no help
DS
Dennis Silance

Could it be the tapered pin, locking the fork to the cross shaft? I heard they can break.
Jean Louis Lafont

Dennis
Go to Google and type "TR fork tapered pin" and read several articles. You "may" recognize your problem.
Jean Louis Lafont

Dennis

Simplest test I can think of would be to get an assistant and have them push the clutch pedal while you measure the movement of the arm coming out of the slave cylinder. If you are getting over 1/2 inch of movement (I think 5/8 inch is the ideal number?) then the problem must be within the bellhousing. If you don't get even half an inch then the problem is with your hydraulics (or the clevis pins at the pedal/slave cylinder could be worn, holes the clevis pins fit through could be ovalled...). Also worth making sure that the clutch slave is attached to the correct hole on the arm dropping from the bellhousing - should be in the middle of the three holes. If you get some movement you could try the top hole as a last ditch measure before you pull the carpet out...

Hope that helps
Alistair
A Hewitt

Just to update;

After trying a couple of different methods to "free a stuck clutch" I came to the conclusion that this clutch really wasn't stuck.
I could drive it up and down the main road basically shifting at the right rpm, and in 4th gear I would depress the clutch pedal, rev the engine then dump the clutch, I could feel it grabbing.
It just wouldn't disengage (or engage?) enough when I was at a stand still to be able to shift.
After swapping out the slave cylinder (just because I had a new spare that came with the car),
and bleeding it a few times, I was still left with the same situation, no clutch!

I remember reading in one of the TR6 restorers manual that the guy had fitted an adjustable push rod at the pedal to the master cylinder to cure his balky clutch problem.
I had already tried lengthening the slave push rod by a bit (didn't have any effect) and trying all three holes in the actuating arm but that didn't help either so it was time to take a look at the MC.
Lo and behold, there were two holes in the fork end of the push rod to the pedal. I had the clevis pin in the first one closest to the master cylinder. Putting it in the last hole or furthest one, instantly gave me more pedal travel and what I was looking for, A CLUTCH!

Boy I feel like an ignoramus (not the first time), the answer was right in front of me.
Thanx for your input guys
Den



Dennis Silance

Dennis
congrats on solving the problem. It is always nice to know it is a simple fix not a tranny pull. Do not feel bad, I put my wiper boxes in backwards and had to pull the entire dash to correct that DOH!
Rick
Rick Crawford

This thread was discussed between 16/09/2007 and 23/09/2007

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