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Triumph TR6 - Clutch problems...
|So... I have a '74 TR6. I've never worked much on cars before, but I think it's time to learn. The clutch on my TR6 is acting up... again. I had it replaced by a local shop about 1.5 years ago, and it worked alright since then. A couple weeks ago I started hearing horrible squealing noises whenever I depressed the clutch (the noise started the instant the clutch was depressed, soft at first, growing louder with the degree of pressure put on the pedal). I haven't driven it since then (afraid it'll stop working altogether), but I really want to get her going again so that I don't miss the few months of sunshine Oregon gives me. My question is this: Is replacing the entire clutch assembly the only way to fix this, or is it possibly just a piece of it (hopefully one that is easier to access, ie not requiring removal of the gearbox). It would be great if all I had to do was replace the slave cylinder or something like that (would bleeding the system help possibly or is that not worth doing?). |
Please help a novice figure out what to do...
|ASounds like the throw out bearing to me. This is the bearing that transmits the motion from the clutch slave cylinder to the arms on the pressure assembly. It comes into contact with them when you depress the clutch pedal, and starts to rotate from the friction. If the bearing is shot it will act just as you describe. Unfortunately, it's nothing that can be fixed without parting the transmission from the engine though. While you ahve it apart, might as well check the pilot bearing/busing in the flywheel, the face of the flywheel, and check the clutch itself before re-installing. If it hasn't seen too much abuse or driving since the change, it's likely OK, but if you are going to the trouble to take the @#$%^&*(thing apart to change the T/O bearing, you might as well make sure everything in there is right.|
|Chris is right, the symptoms that you discribed are classic release bearing problems. As a rule, if you replace the clutch, the bearing must be changed as well.|
Another key point that should be taken when you have the transmission separated is to replace the tapered pin that is in the release fork. These pins develop cracks and will fail when they shear leaving your car stranded. The pin is expensive for what it is ~$14 but is worthwhile insurance. Some people drill an additional hole in the mechanism and put in a grade 8 nut and bolt.
|I replaced my clutch (and T/O bearing)less than 1k miles ago. I started getting some squeal just last week. I knew immediately it was the T/O, but actually I'm not too concerned with it. Perhaps your noise is louder than mine, but I dont plan on doing anything real soon. I've heard others complain about new T/O bearings "chirping" and suggestions that they be geased better before installation. Somewhat annoying, but right now, not worth pulling the tranny again.|
|MY ENGINE IS SEPERATED FROM THE TRANS RIGHT KNOW. THIS BBS IS INTERESTING. WHERE DOES THE GREASE GO ON THE T/O. ON STEVENS COMMENT, CAN YOU (OR ANYONE ELSE)DISCRIBE WHERE THE ADDITIONAL HOLE WOULD GO FOR THE GR. 8 BOLT.|
|Don, you can put a bit of grease in the grove on sleave that is attached to the T/o bearing. Also lubricate the splined shaft. The T/O bearing is internally greased.|
New T/O bearings don't chirp, they only do when the sleave and the bearing are not pressed together properly and hence damages the bearing.
Hint to attach the T/O bearing, get 2 very large strong washers and a grade 5 fine thread nut and bolt. Assemble the sleave and T/O bearing with the washers on the outside and slowly tighten the nut and bolt and it will be pressed together perfectly.
One other point, make sure you DON'T loose the fine pin that is in the sleave...this stops the whole mechanism from spinning and will make noise and wear out the fork pins in due time and hense clutch failure
While you have it apart, rotate the pins on the clutch fork 90*. They tend to get flat spotted due to wear and over time they will not release the clutch fully.
Other point that should be changed is the bushes in the clutch shaft. They tend to wear so either put in TR3 ones or double up with the tr6 ones on both sides.
Regarding the extra bolt, drill in cross through the shaft and the fork (at right angles) Do this at the other end of the fork away from where the tapered pin is.
Hope this helps
| I've read on the 6-Pack List, a number of Tr6 owners have replaced the stock throwout|
bearing with one from a Toyota Landcruiser. (it actually fits the sleeve). Also at the same time they
use a Sach pressure plate for a Saab and use a standard Tr6 clutch disk. This same combination is sold
by TRF as the "experimental clutch" - guaranteed for life. (except TRF doesn't tell you where they're sourcing the clutch parts) British Northwest also sells the same above setup. Everything I've read or heard suggests that this type of setup is the way to go and it eliminates a lot of the clutch component
problems that plague the Tr6.
Also, as Steven suggests you should replace all of the pins, bushings etc in and around the operation
of the clutch forks - when you think about all these parts are pretty cheap.
This thread was discussed between 04/07/2001 and 08/07/2001
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