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Triumph TR6 - clutch question
I installed a new slave cylinder today but ran into a real problem. There was no return pressure on the operating arm back to the shaft going into the slave. As a result, when my son went to depress the clutch pedal, the guts of the slave started to pop out (like the slave was having a hernia). I realized I was able to rotate the operating arm by hand. Is this result of the dreaded fork to shaft pin being sheared off?
By the way, I learned that you should never start the car without the oil pressure gauge hooked up. I forgot that the line that operates the gauge would still be active. My floor boards and pants had a slick reminder of this.
Is it possible you reinstalled the slave cylinder on the wrong side of the bell housing. I know it can and has been done before. I don't remember which side it goes on.
Otherwise, the only thing that pushes back is the fingers in the pressure plate. So, yes your fork pin could be broken which I hear is common. Mine was broken but the clutch still operated to some degree. I think yours would have to be sheard off completely to be inoperable as you describe. If you can move the clutch shaft by hand then it looks like you'll have to pull that trans to have a look. Shouldn't be a big deal for you since your interior is out. It is still out isn't it?
|HP Henry Patterson|
The interior is out and the dash is almost removed as well, the only thing holding me back is the steering column. I wanted to see if I can get the car moving to determine how worn the clutch was before I pull the body off. It seems now I may as well replace the pressure plate,clutch disk, gaskets,etc since I am going to have to pull the trans from the motor.
The slave was mounted to the rear side of the trans bell housing so it should have plenty of room for the rod to travel.
I thought it was odd that I was able to move the operating arm back and forth with my fingers with no pressure. This is the first time I ever had a clutch with a slave cylinder, my 65 GTO had a mechanical linkage that went directly to the throwout bearing.
In the big picture....since you are going to pull the body off you may as well pull the trans after that. With no body, pulling the trans would be a walk in the park.
|HP Henry Patterson|
With reference to Tom C's mention of his '65 GTO
has anyone out there ever converted the 6 to a cable or rod activated clutch operation?
|Dennis, what would changing to a rod or cable gain you? The hydraulic's not a bad system. A lot of race cars are using the exact same master cylinder. I even saw one on a Jeep Cherokee my tenant owns. They give you enough notice that they may fail if you check the fluid occasionally.|
Tom C., you could maybe move the lever towards the cylinder normally, but if you can move it a long ways in the direction away from the cylinder, you'd have to be mighty strong to disengage the clutch. I am assuming you haven't driven the car yet, and don't know if the clutch was functioning before you rebuilt the slave. I can't remember which side of the flange the slave goes on either, but if you try it on the other side, maybe you'll get enough travel to actuate the clutch. In other words, I concur with Henry. It would be nuts to not rebuild everything once you have the body off, you'll never get better access. You already have the symtoms of shipwrights disease if you're doing body off...are you bracing the thing so it doesn't fold when you lift it?
This thread was discussed between 13/11/2005 and 15/11/2005
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