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Triumph TR6 - Clutch Replacement Options

Hey All,

I finally decided to pull my tranny out to check my clutch fork pin and indeed there was play in the fork, and the pin was sheared about a quarter inch up from the end of the threads.

While I have the tranny out, I am thinking of replacing the clutch and note from the archives that there were some problems with the Borg and Beck replacements. Is this still an issue? What is the best option right now?

As always, thanks a ton!

Ignatius
Ignatius Rigor

Ignatius
I still think the best option is the original Laycock clutch, they are quite hard come by, but I managed to get a new cover plate on Ebay last year.
Ron
R. Algie

Ignatius
Hi how are ya? Sorry to hear your 6 is up on the blocks.
I got the Laycock as I was told the B+B was not as good. Replace the fork arm as it will now have a "not so round" taper hole for the fork pin. Also put in the extra drilled hole/bolt thing as discussed on other web sites. The other thing I did on my rebuild of that area was to remove and replace the brass bearings that the fork arm slides into at the ouside of the clutch housing. I was told, and did this, to put 2 bearings (not originally only 1) back in both sides.....double the bearing surface? While it is out you may as well replace the throw out bearing. Also check condition of the fork pins for round.
Regards
Rick C
Rick Crawford

All--I've found numerous helpful hints in the Moss UK catalog, including this on the Laycock/B&B clutches:

Two different manufacturers supplied clutch assemblies for production line fitment to TR5s, TR250s and TR6s. Debate still rages on the pros and cons to be had from using either a Borg & Beck or a Laycock clutch; the only indisputable fact is that they are completely interchangeable if fitted as sets of cover and plate. One limiting factor must be considered when changing allegiances from one manufacturer to the other: the Borg & Beck cover assembly requires longer screws to attach it to the flywheel than those used to fit the Laycock cover (this is because the mounting flange on the Laycock cover is thinner than that on the Borg & Beck item). On the other hand, the length of the screw thread must not exceed 3/4” (for the Borg & Beck clutch) or 5/8” (for the Laycock clutch), otherwise the screws may bottom in the tapped hole in the flywheel, leaving the clutch cover loose. The clutch kit currently supplied by Borg & Beck covers TR4A, TR250, TR5 & TR6 models. During 1999 Borg & Beck re-introduced a clutch kit as originally specified for the TR4A. In both kits, the release bearing and friction plate are both the same. The ‘4A’ clutch cover gives a much lower clamping pressure than that specified for PI cars, resulting in a much lighter clutch pedal. This now offers you the choice: should you go for a lighter clutch and risk slipping due to the lower clamping pressure (usually only a high mileage problem), or should you opt for a heavier kit which definitely will not slip but has been known to cause problems with both hydraulics and the operating mechanism? The choice of risks is yours.
Rick Orthen

Hi Rick C., I am actually excited about having the time to do this! I have wanted to fix the pin, rear engine seal, etc. since I got the car a few years ago.


Hi All, Thanks for the help! I suppose I have options to think about.


Ignatius
Ignatius Rigor

I'm reactivating this thread from the archives. I'm at a point where I can replace my clutch in my restoration. Engine's essentially buttoned up (after having to redo the timing wheel orientation at least once). Don't know that I need a new clutch, but don't know that I don't either. Definitely will need a new pressure plate and throwout bearing along with new fork etc. Alreay have new Clutch master and slave cylinders and SS lines for those, but am ambivalent about the clutch. Any thoughts from anyone w/r to whether I should rebuild or "patch" up waht I've got or go with a completely new setup and if so which...TRF's Magic Clutch, B&B, Laycock, ??? Appreciate y'all input. Thanks.
db
Doug Baker

Doug

Replace it while you have it apart. I can't comment on make though. I don't remember whose I put in when I did mine but it isn't as crisp as I would like it. .
Michael Petryschuk

Doug- The clutch parts out right now are very critical of make. Seems some of the better names have been putting out crap lately and have lots of failures.
BPNW's set up seems to be the most preferred now days.
DON KELLY

Anyone have any experience with TRF's Magic Clutch? Seems that they use a Land Rover throw out bearing vs the Gunst or Koko in the Borg & Beck (apparently no longer manufactured by B&B) or Laycock. Ready to execute. Need some BBS expert advice here guys. Thanks.
db
Doug Baker

Doug....
More info here....pay attention to the section on "dowel bolts"
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/ReliableClutch/ReliableClutch.htm

Rod
Rod Nichols

Rod, Thanks. Good article. Knew about the alignment pins and from this article can see the advantage of the Gunst release bearing.
db
Doug Baker

Those bolts are Very, Read again VERY important. It seems a lot of problems lately arising from improperly aligned trans. It doesn't have to be off by much to have it fail it a hurry. You won't know until it does.
I wonder if I have mine aligned right. Not gonna take it apart to find out.
DON KELLY

Don, among the precautions I've read is to have the flywheel flat, that is perfectly 90 degrees to the input shaft and completely parallel to the clutch plate. Even suggested using a read out dial to note any variance from true plumb.
db
Doug Baker

I think there has been a rash of misaligned gear boxes all do to the fact that the correct dowel bolts are not used and left in.

The Gunst has been a no show lately with quite a few failures. specially with a certain set up.
Read here as this has been a typical failure reported
http://www.74tr6.com/clutchreplacement.htm
DON KELLY

Don,
Read the article and also read that Mr. Gunst advised against using his bearing with a B&B pressure plate. His advice was NOT to use a constantly rotating bearing with "bent" finger pressure plate. Supposedly the Gunst works well with LUK or LAYCOCK pressure plates. Don't know, but now committed. Will advise when/if I get this sucker running again.
db
Doug Baker

Hello,

A bit late but try:

http://www.ultrarev.com/

They sell Fidanza flywheel and stage 1 & 2 clutch.

JG
J. G. Catford

From the voice of first hand bad experience, do not use a B&B clutch with a Gunst bearing. If you are going to run a Gunst bearing, the hot lick is an LuK clutch. I got my LuK from these guys, there are several other sources as well:

http://www.carolinaclutch.com/ListItems.aspx?RootCat=Clutch+Kit&&

The other key part is what Rod said above regarding the pins.
SteveP1

Well Steve,

They have good price.

Thanks,



Jean G.
J. G. Catford

I was really surprised that there was another Ignatius out there posting, but I see I have been resurrected.

I got the laycock clutch way back then, also replaced the throw out bearing and it has been great!

And it is probably good to replace the clutch fork pin, which started this project for me. I had a second cross bolt added in just in case.
Ignatius Rigor

Ig, what the devil you been up too. Still have the 6?
Pumping out kids or sumpin?
DON KELLY

Don, ya, still got the 6, and yes, kids have kind of side tracked me from tinkering. But the a car is running well (knock on dash), so I have mostly just been lurking on this bbs.
Ignatius Rigor

Well pipe up every once in a while so we know your still breathin.
Will have to get together one of these days.
You can come help me lift the block out of the Wedge
DON KELLY

This thread was discussed between 10/06/2004 and 17/02/2011

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