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Triumph TR6 - Clutch slave cylinder Pushrod length?

I have to much slack in the clutch mechanism on my TR6 -72. According to the Moss UK catalogue the length of the Clutch slave cylinder Pushrod shuld be 6" from ball end to clevis pin centre.
The pushrod mounted on my car was somewhat homemade and meassured only 5 3/4".
I guessed this was where my slack orginated from, since I this way missed 1/4" travel in the clutch.
I ordered a new pushrod, but the new one was even sligthly shorter than the old one.
Does anyone know the proper dimensions for this pushrod?

/Peter
Peter

Peter
I just measured an old one and it was 5 11/16" using your measuring points. Maybe u have some play up in the pedel bushings. Also the pin and its associated holes should not be worn/elongated. Can u move the clutch operating shaft arm by hand with the push rod detached? You should not be able to.
Rick C
Rick Crawford

Hi Rick,
Thank you for measuring your push rod.
I can move the clutch operating shaft arm by hand with the push rod detached maybe an inch or so before the clutch springs engage. When the clutch is in use, the push rod is rather far out from the cylinder before any resistance can be felt, I hoped this was due to a to short push rod. But since I have the same length as your rod, I may have to look forward to get the gearbox out and replace the worn out(?) clutch.
Peter Stolt

Peter- Might not be a clutch problem, it could be the pin for the fork, and we don't want to open that can of worms
Don K
DON KELLY

Don,
thanks for reminding me, I have read about that fork pin and will certainly check that as well when I open the clutch. But that will have to wait until next spring when I can remove the gearbox outside since I donīt have space enough to remove the gearbox in my garage and we got a couple of inches of snow today.
Peter S
Peter

Hi Peter
Because of your symptoms.

Please do one simple check with the clutch push rod in place. Engine off!!! Have someone push in the clutch and hold. You push back on the fan center as hard as you can moving the crankshaft back. Hold on to the fan and have helper release the clutch slowly. If you feel any movement more than the width of your fingernail thrust bearings worn if it feels like a 1/4 inch or more your crank thrust bearings are out and in the pan.

Easier repair than tranny clutch.

As these engines get older I believe its a mandatory easy check.

If theres no movement likley pin.

Let me Know
Bill
B Brayford

Hi Bill,
thanks for the hint concerning the procedure to check the axial play in the crankshaft.
I will try that next time I can talk my wife into joining me in the garage.
I let you know the result
Peter
Peter S

Don K
And you gave Ignatius heck for giving people the bad news...MAN!
Rick Crawford

Steven, this slack in the clutch lever does sound a little like one of the issues with my TR. I.e. I think the little nub on the end of my clutch fork pin is broken, but the pin has not completely sheared off, so I can still clutch, but there is some play.

I have decided that if it is just the tip of the clutch fork pin that is broken, then the slack in the clutch lever is not that big of a problem as long as all the other clutch mechanisms are in good shape. I.e. Once I rebuilt the clutch master and slave cylinders, and put in new pins at the pedal and the lever (the ovaling of the holes was only very slight), then clutching and shifting worked much better, and all I have to deal with is a rattle in the tranny that most people do not hear.

My mechanic assures me that the rest of the pin should hold out and that I can wait till I have nothing else to work on, or my clutch disk starts wearing. ...knock on wood!

Ignatius
Ignatius

This thread was discussed between 13/11/2002 and 17/11/2002

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