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Triumph TR6 - Clutch Sticking
|I recently had my transmission rebuilt and a new throw out bearing installed at the same time. I now have a problem once the car warms up. It seems the clutch somewhat hangs up when releasing and kind of pops out causing the differential to get a jolt. If I sit at a stop light and leave it in neutral and then press the clutch put it in first and take off it doesnt do it. It only does this coming out of first gear.|
Any ideas what could be causing this???
I will assume that you can shift smoothly into reverse when at rest.
That said, a couple of things come to mind. If you can actually feel the clutch hanging through the pedal it could be the carrier for the t/o bearing sticking on the front housing. Was a new carrier installed also? As you only experience the problem when everything is warm I would look here first.
Perhaps the transmission is out of alignment. Were the 3/8" dowels from the bell housing to the rear engine plate reinstalled properly? Without these dowels the transmission is not centered properly and tends to hang up the clutch release.
The dowels are easy to check for, the carrier means, never mind, you already know . . . . . .
|thanks Don.......I didn't do the work I had a British mechanic do it. I really don't want to have to pull the tranny again as it is a big job tearing out some of the interior. All that was changed was the bearing that I know of....I will ask the guy that did it. I will also ask about the dowels.......I didnt understand your last comment....I already know????|
|I just re read it....I get it now.......you mean pulling out the tranny again!!!!!|
|Maybe the hinge pin on the clutch pedal needs oil? Does the pedal stick down? At least it would be easy.|
|The dowels that Don is refering to are actually 3/8 inch bolts that are part of the many bolts holding the trans bell housing to the engine plate. There are only two 3/8 bolts. One on each side of the bell housing. All of the other bolts are a little smaller. Forgot the size. But you still have to pull the trans cover off to get at them. maybe you could get to them from underneath but it would be difficult.|
Did the British Mechanic provide warranty of his work? If you have a problem after his repair then I would think he should be involved.
As Tom suggests...lube the pedal pivot because it's easy. But that seems unlikely if you didn't have a problem before the trans rebuild. I assume the mechanic didn't think the clutch needed replacing even though he was right there with the trans off?
|HP Henry Patterson|
|John, sounds exactly like the problem I had after replacing my clutch last year. My British car mechanic said the throwout was stuttering on the shaft as it worked in and out. Replaced it with a special TO with a extra long carrier so it moves smoothly along the shaft. Works smoother than any clutch I've ever had. Don't know where he got it though.|
|The clutch was new not long before and was good. I doubt it is the hinge ont eh pedal but I will check it out. We greased the fitting real good on the bottom but that doesn't seem to do much. Maybe it is the thow out stuttering on the shaft. I am worried if I don't get it fixed I will damage the differential. I will pass on these comments to my mechanic and see what he suggests. I really do not want to get into pulling the tranny again but think I might have to.|
|John-Most likely the slow to release clutch is caused by the bearing carrier binding. Some people have even resorted to drilling a couple of small holes in the bell housing to shoot lubricant through in order to avoid pulling the transmission. Another possible cause, could be that the flexible hose to the slave cylinder has deteriorated and collasped inside. This can cause a restriction that makes the clutch slow to release. A long shot, but maybe something to check before pulling the trans.|
This thread was discussed between 17/09/2005 and 18/09/2005
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