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Triumph TR6 - Clutch transmission removal

I am removing the clutch / transmission unit to install a new clutch. I have the prop shaft disconected, and the 2 bolts holding the back of the tranny to the frame are out, so the unit is ready to pull out. My question is do I need to somehow support the back end of the engine from the underside before removing the bolts from the bell housing. I see only 2 engine mounts and they are forward, so there seems no support towards the back of the engine. If so, any suggestions how to do this, as the oil pan is very close to the bell housing, and I didn't want to remove the oil pan.
Cheers
Pete
Pete Russell

Hi Pete,
I helped my friend do his and he placed a block of wood between the engine (below the valve cover) and the firewall, we also used a jack with wood under the engine in the oil pan area to slightly lift and lower as needed to remove and re-install the tranny.

PS
I was over at Colin's in Fergus tonight and he says Hi !
Cheers
Charlie
Charlie Ballard

Pete

WHAT...you have taken her off the road...there has to be at least 2 more days of driving left this year:)


Have fun!
Rick C

PS do not forget to put the one nut and bolt at the starter area back in "backwards".
Rick Crawford

Pete,
I have taken the gearbox out of my 6 and 3a several times so I could do it with my eyes closed. Charlie is right, you need to use a jack with a piece of wood under the oil pan to support the end of the engine. Pulling it out is the easy part...putting it back in is a real pain if you are doing it by yourself. The problem I have always had is getting the right angle of the gearbox to match with the engine so that they come together without effort. A trick that was taught to me is once the tranny is out, install two or three long (I think I used 3") bolts without the heads into the back of the engine (say at the 2 and 10 o'clock positions)where you would mount the bell housing to the engine. When re-installing the gearbox, slide these bolts into the appropriate holes in the gearbox and let these bolts act as a guide in sliding the gearbox in the correct alignment back to the engine. Once mated together, secure the gearbox to the engine with the correct bolts and then remove the long bolts and secure with the correct ones. I hope this makes sense
Mike
Mike Parkhill

Rick,
Yes, sadly it is indeed true. Not only is she "off the road", but also literally "off the ground". Unfortunately the last drive of the year was last Saturday, and she got wet!!! It wasn't exactly a top down day around here. I intend to have the clutch out this weekend for inspection. Thanks for reminding me about reversing the starter bolt.
Cheers
Pete
Pete Russell

Mike,
Thanks for the tip re headless bolts as guides. I'm getting to be an old guy, so I've learned along the way that almost anything comes apart easier than it goes back together. I was concerned about supporting the engine on the oil pan, but it seems like the pan can bear the weight without "crunching" it. Spreading the weight out over a 2x6 probably makes sense.
Thanks & cheers
Pete
Pete Russell

My trick is to remove the drain plug, support a piece of ply the shape of the tranny openning in the floor the same hieight as the bottom of the bell housing, and slide the tranny in along the plywood.


Bryn

To get my tranny back in, I used the headless bolts and made a small rolling platform from plywood and some casters/wheels that I had laying around.

This worked really well since I could put the tranny in the cockpit, and onto the roller with a few pieces of wood to get the hight right, then slide it up to the headless bolts without scratching anything ALL BY MYSELF.

Ignatius
Ignatius Rigor

Hi Pete

You will notice some of the bolts have the nuts on one side and some are reversed. Make a note. look for items attached to those bolts.

Block the engine whichever way suites your situation..

Engine crane/Cherry picker whatever you wish to call it. With a chain leveler or without makes it a snap. You have to realy try hard to damage anything with it..:) Cheap to rent or borrow for R&R. My new one has about a hundred times as many travel miles on it as it has lifts. 4 in my shop 11 in others. Old one was the same.

Most important thing is to keep the bell housing angled down at all times when lifting tranny. After you remove the speedo cable all that nice fluid runs out if you lift and tilt back!

Yep I've done that and I was also to lazy to pull the carpet first. Oh yah I'll just slide that puppy out in a minute.

IMHO
Bill
Bill Brayford

This thread was discussed between 19/10/2004 and 22/10/2004

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