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Triumph TR6 - Coil Spring compressor
|I'm into the front suspension today and replacing ball joints and tie rod ends, while installing the tighter set of springs (same ride height, just a higher rating). The front springs came out pretty easily just by relaxing the lower A arm down from the trunion bolt at the bottom. However due to the 'angle of the dangle" the spring doesn't want to go in without compressing. So I found an internal spring compressor and scrunched up the spring as much as possible, but it's still not going in (still too tall). Any advice on how to do this intelligently before I go looking for the bigger hammer?|
|Ready-rod compressor through the center of the spring & lower spring plate. Tighten the spring compressor nuts each end to compress the spring with lower spring plate in-place and she'll go together with one hand tied behind your back.|
|You're lucky the damn thing didn't come out and break your arm. Get or make the compressor. I used threaded rod and a piece of 2X4. The hardest thing is getting the rusty pan bolts and shock mounts off. A floor jack as backup's not a bad idea, kind of doubles the safety. Until that pressure's off, it's a nervous thing for me. Be careful.|
|I had the same problem you had. I tried external, internal compressor, ( external got in the way, internal was too big) I had a friend put a big screwdriver 1/2 way up the spring and put it through the hole which is in the shock tower, that compressed it quite a bit, then i put a screwdriver through the bottom part of the spring and was able to get the spring up enough to assemble to lower part of the A-arm assembly|
|Tom, scarry...read jmackd1 post....THAT is scarry! Sorry jmackd1, but not something I would recommend to anyone.|
I used Tom's method. My spring compressor is the threaded rod...I think about 3/4" rod with big mother washers and double nuts at the bottom. Use the floor jack to bring the bottom spring plate up so the spring is just starting to compress. Do not forget the new spring pads top and bottom. Insert threaded rod from bottom. The rod is only long enough to just catch a few threads at the top. Top has big washers also. With wrench, start to compress from top. I used long bolts in the lower pan to guide the plate into position. As spring compresses and the "guide bolts" line up then replace the guide bolts with the nuts and bolts. Tighten them up as you compress the spring more. Torque to spec. Remove threaded rod and install shock.
This IS a very dangerous job...take all precautions for your safety!
Confession time. I did this with the tub off the car so it was easier for me.
|This worked well for me...5/8 threaded rod and a bit of steel plate about 3X6 with a couple of stops welded on it to match the curves of the spring / or the two sided hooks taken off a GM type compressor.|
Thread the rod up thru' the top housing,add a large thick washer and pull up snug and start tightening. It pulled the spring up nice and then we lifted the lower plate up and attached at the top to the two arms,then backed off the bolt.
Like Rick says...always be carefull...a lot of power in the coils.
|Ironically, guess what is for sale on Ebay?|
No financial interest or other stuff, but I guess the threaded rod must be the official Triumph brand??
Hence the price?
|My threaded rod was deffinitely heavier than that one and did not cost me $33.00 to make.|
|I agree Rick $33 US is a ripoff...I could make a few for that price|
|Hey Rick, Charlie,|
I am about to tackle my front suspension too. How long should the threaded rod be? I think they came in three foot sections at the local hardware store, but I figure this is too long.
...maybe 2" longer than the spring, plus room to add the 2x4s, washers and nuts on each end?
|Thanks to all. I got it in, using the rented internal spring compressor with hooks at the top and bottom. It was a really tight fit, because the carriers for the hooks run into each other in the middle of the threaded rod pretty quickly, and the spring doesn't get compressed a whole lot. The threaded rod gets fed up through the shock tower hole and I ran the nut at bottom to the max where the two carriers meet. This still makes it hard to clear the lip of the hole in the lower A-arm, and I helped it in with a a ball joint seperator. This was a free solution, because the auto parts store sells it to you and then refunds it when you return it in working order. It sounds like there are several good twists on this them that will also work, but I am glad to say my suspension is all in.|
|I cut about 10 inches off the hardware store all-thread. If it's too short, don't blame me. Measure if you must. I parted out a TR3 once (without a compressor) and when that spring gave way, I about jumped out of my shorts. And said a prayer, and promised myself never to do that again. Lucky once, stupid twice. I may have used double 2X4's, now that I think about it...and big fender washers. Grease the threads if you want. You'll need to lock one end, so 3 nuts are needed. The biggest pain was the rusty shock holder on the bottom of the pan.|
|If you are nervous about removing the spring, and I can assure you you should be! Use the threaded rod method to release the spring pressure but as an extra safety measure loop some chain or cable through the spring coils and around the frame. This will stop things flying if something goes wrong.|
|P A Smith|
I'm not at home but I think I cut the rod about 16" long.
This thread was discussed between 01/07/2005 and 08/07/2005
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