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Triumph TR6 - Cracked Front Differential Bracket

Well, I dropped my differential to check the brackets. And surprise surprise the RF bracket was cracked just like TRF warned about. Now my plan is to buy the reinforcement pieces from TRF to box in the 2 front brackets and then have the crack welded and the reinforcement pieces welded in. I assume this will be strong enough. The top of the bracket and bolt look ok which leads me to believe it hasn't been cracked that long. Any one see any problems with this idea? Thanks

Been there, done that...When you box it in and weld the crack, it will be plenty STRONG!!! Yes, I also welded the top of the bolts but, to do that, you need to lift the body off!! You really don't have to do that unless you drive really hard.
Your doin' that right thing boxing them in...
Good luck in you final decision.


If you want to build your own reinforcement pieces, the template is available.

What kind of symptoms or noise leads one to believe that their differential brackets are cracked? Is there any way to detect the crack without dropping the differential?

I have an intermittent clunk in my rear suspension that I can't seem to track down despite replacing almost everything.

B. Lanoway

Sounds like the culprit to me.

My symptom was a clunk as well as an intermittent squeak from the rear. You may be able to feel the crack or maybe look with a dental mirror.
Don from Jersey

clunking in the rear is not always the front right side diff bracket. It can also be worn u-joints. Best way to tell if it is the bracket is to view with diff removed. You may be able to see or feel a crack if you can get a hand in there or a mirror as suggested.

I believe the diff bracket crack is most pronounced when first starting off in reverse as the torque is opposite of the diff than in forward power motion. This causes the diff bracket to flex the opposite direction and clunk or click loudly.

Some have welded the top of the bolts by cutting holes in the rear interior "occassional" seat, but is rather drastic. To fix the top weld right, remove body.

I'm having the exact same problem. I am also experiencing a grinding noise from the right rear. I inspected everything and found only the right rear mount cracked. My first thought is that all of the U-joints need to be changed, although I cannot find any obvious movement or wear, over 100K miles on the car though.

How difficult is it to weld/box the cracked mount from the underside of the car? Must it be done on a lift or is it possible to do it on jacks? Is the top of the pin welded to the plate?
Dan Alesandro

Dan-I had the same grauching noise from the right front diff mount. It was caused by the flexing of cracks in the frame that the pin is welded to. I committed the sin of cutting an access hole, drilling&welding the cracks, removing the old pin, and welding in an approx. 4"X4"X1/4" plate with a new pin. The stress of the diff. torque is now distributed over the area of the plate rather than the area around the pin. A job better done with the body off, but if I had it to do over again, I would. If you do cut a hole above the pin, watch out for the emergency brake cable.
Berry Price
BTP Price

This thread was discussed between 03/06/2006 and 22/06/2006

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