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Triumph TR6 - Cronic stalling

My 75 TR6 starts easily when cold but often stalls when hot and is then a pig to restart. Often OK if I wait a while. I know that the tappets need adjusting since they are quite noisy. The engine sometimes misses when accelerating at low revs which makes me lean towards an ignition problem. The cap, leads and rotor were replaced recently and the car is fitted with an aftermarket electronic ignition module (Allison) which has eliminated the points.

Any suggestions for a logical diagnostic process?

Regards,

Barry
BJ Quartermaine

I would really check your rotor button.
What brand is it?

Also has symptoms of a bad coil
DON KELLY

Personally Barry

When it a a hot cold thing, I suspect fuel delivery.

If your tappets are out of adjustment- get them adjusted first. If the valves aren't closing properly then you won't be getting good compression or possibly the right fuel mixture into the cylinder. From experience, I found when the tappets are not correct, when the car gets hot, it runs like a pig or stalls and won't start.

If the adjustment doesn't fixes the problem, I would then look for air leaks around the carbs and make sure the temperature compensaters on the carbs are adjusted correctly.

Regards
Mike
Michael Petryschuk

Mike, they would have to be pretty far out , wouldn't they?
DON KELLY

Thanks Mike - I believe that you have heard my engine running! Valve adjustment is on the todo list - I'm sure that the clearances are too big so shouldn't affect the compression but run the risk of burning exhaust valves.

Barry
BJ Quartermaine

Hi Don

I don't know how far out they have to be to cause a problem but if 2 or 3 valves are not closing or opening properly it will affect whether fuel is being pulled into the cylinder properly and it affects the other cylinders and manifold vacuum that affects the carburettor ability. In my experience, I don't know what I did wrong but after adjusting my valves, when I took the car for a run a day later and it warmed up, it began to run poorly and I could barely keep it running. I turned right around and went home. I did the valves again and it has run great since.

I suspect I had the tolerance too tight on one or too valves and when the car warmed up and valves and rocker arm expanded it caused some valves to stay open preventing good compression and fuel delivery. I may have set them when the engine was too cool or did not have the piston/ valve properly positioned on some valves.

As such, I wouldn't try anything else in troubleshooting until the valves are set properly particularly if I suspected they were out of tolerance as Barry has indicated he suspects.

Barry

let us know how it goes. I seem to recall there was some noise the last time I heard your machine.
Michael Petryschuk

I'm still leaning electric
DON KELLY

Thanks for the feedback. Problem on hold until valve clearances set.

Barry
BJ Quartermaine

Hi Barry,
Make sure you set the valves when the engine is cold,
If you've never done it before I'd be happy to give you easy step by step info
Charlie
Charlie B.

Thanks Charlie

I have done it before on the MGB. Will be looking for recessed rockers that could impact feeler gauge accuracy. I bought a Click-Adjust tool some time ago that purports to help avoid errors - will give it a try.

Barry
BJ Quartermaine

Barry
As soon as you said Click-adjust I had to respond.
This tool makes valve adjustment so simple, my grandaughter could do it. There is definitely an order and it can be made very simple to do. I have a old thread on this...do not recall it right now but will look it up if you wish. I do my valves anually because it is so easy. Yes must be done cold.

This may not be the fix but is a good place to start as it sounds like it has not been done.


Rick
Rick Crawford

I believe that the problem has been solved. The coil was replaced with some perceived improvement but then stalling returned when hot. Based on specific local advice, I replaced the carb diaphragms since they appeared to have a tiny crack at the fold. The engine now idles so much more smoothly and pulls away without the previous hesitation and stumbling. No stalls experienced todate even when crawling through town on a hot day in Sunday afternoon traffic. I will keep my fingers crossed. I also replaced the rotor with the blue upgraded item as ahedgge against future problems with reported substandard items.

Thanks again for the advice.

Barry
BJ Quartermaine

Damn, almost had it!

I was thinking diaphragm in the back of my mind
DON KELLY

Barry

You still plan to adjust the valve timing....yes?

Rick
Rick Crawford

Barry

Aha just as I suspected - a fuel delivery problem. ;-) Glad it's solved

As Rick says- you should still do the valve timing.
Michael Petryschuk

Forgot to mention that I set the calves first - not far off spec. Still noisy! I tried the Clickadjust but gave up - I found it too frustrating as couldn't seem to get the hang of it.

To expand on the comment re the rotor replacement. Fred at British Auto Sport mentioned that there had been a lot of reported failures with a batch of Lucas replacement rotors so he had stopped selling them and now recommends the "blue" rotor that is reportedly of much higher dielectric strength. I did have a failure last year when I had to call CAA for a lift home - have carried a spare since then.

Will be away next three weeks so won't be monitoring the board.

Cheers,
Barry
BJ Quartermaine

Calves???

Barry. Get your rotors from here.
http://advanceddistributors.mybisi.com/product/45d-4-6-cylinder-ignition-rotor
DON KELLY

C is next to V - careless fingers.
BJ Quartermaine

Hwy I halv that diesease
DON KELLY

This thread was discussed between 23/05/2011 and 07/06/2011

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