Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.
Triumph TR6 - db Update
|For those who may have thought that I'd given up this adventure, the tub went to the painter's yesterday. Concluded that a new driver's floor pan and an inside left rocker panel were needed, along with a battery tray which I already had. No other metal panels to replace, although some holes here and there to patch. It'll be a month or so before I get the chassis back to work on the suspension and frame. Meanwhile the engine gets a look-see. Ordered up a bunch of parts from TRF today, but was unsure if the aluminum flywheel they sell is indeed the proper "alloy". Steve Pike, where are you when I need you?:)|
Hope all are enjoying this mild Winter, at least mild here. Temps in the 70s the last few days. Normally in the 20s.
|Mild my @&*@#**|
Glad to hear your progress. I share Don's enthusiasm on your weather. It really P!$$@$ me off since I'm sitting here looking at an ice covered landscape.
Since you brought up floors...the only rust my car has is the front section of the drivers floor around where the feet rest. Of course it has rusted from the inside most likely from wet carpeting back in the old days. There is only one small hole the size of a pencil eraser. and another the size of a bb. All metal is very solid from that small section back..still has the original paint. It's not a big deal but I'm thinking about making it right.
Do you or anyone else know if splicing in a portion of a new floor is a good way to go rather than replacing the entire floor section? Some people have suggested grinding the metal and using a rust treatment followed by a layer of fiberglass mat and resin. I had already done the rust treatment on that section when I restored the body.
|HP Henry Patterson|
If you've cleaned down to the metal and are sure that you have no more rust through than you've described, I sure would not replace the floor pan. With a couple of small holes, you have a number of options to fill, finish and protect. Structural integrity is your main concern and then protect from the inside out. The floor pan, most often, rusts from the inside. Mine suffered leaking brake fluid which wiped out the paint exposing the metal to the ravages of moisture and electromechanical reactions. I'm only splicing a new floor pan in...only about the front 1/3 or so, so certainly if you have good metal, don't throw it away and just as importanly, don't give up the alignment that you already have w/r to the body/frame. If you replaced the whole floor pan back to the rear wheels, you'd invite a serious alignment issue with your refitting, welding etc.
Consider the several methods to fill the holes and be sure to rust proof after you're done. Checkout Eastwood for several applicalbe products. POR-15 will work well for that too, as will truck bed liner, then prime and paint body color and you're done!
There is no structural problem. When I restored the body I had to replace the outer sills. the inner sills looked like new, showing the original primer, when I peeled the outers off. That would have been the only structual problem. I did all of the work except the final weld (someday I'll learn how to do that). Solid frame.
I do prefer the patch method you mention since I would rather not cut and weld. The floor is mostly solid except just under the feet.
Thanks for your advice.
|HP Henry Patterson|
Check out EastWood. They have several epoxy/acrylic/whatever fill products with which you should be well pleased.
|"Do you or anyone else know if splicing in a portion of a new floor is a good way to go rather than replacing the entire floor section"|
Henry- There is a guy down in Bayou country doing exactly that on his 6. He plasma cut out the about 99% of the old section and overlaid the new floors right on top of what was left for a welding area. If you interested I'll get his # for you?
Thanks anyway Don,
I have such a small section that I think I'm going with the simple patch method. It's probably around a 6" square that is weak with rust and has those couple of small holes I mentioned. Buying a whole floor section and cutting out what I need might be overkill for me. I don't have welding skills or equipment so I would have to find someone to do it. I guess if I ever have to sell the car I may wish I had done it with the spliced in floor section.
|HP Henry Patterson|
I just finished the passenger side floor and sills this weekend.
Since you already replaced the sills, it is tough to get a whole new floor section in without cutting the sills away between the A+B pillars and keeping the body on the frame. The problem is the arch that wraps behind the B pillar.
If the floor is solid go for the patch. If you want to hide it, I would suggest overlapping one of the ribs in the floor to start your new section. This way you can hide the seam with some body sealer (3M) on top and some textured undercoating underneath.
You may get lucky if you can find somebody cutting up a car to sawzall the section of floor pan you need. I am looking for a rear valance and battery tray and have been emailing people on Ebay who seem like they are tearing apart a car.
Good luck, it sucks working under the car in a snow suit, that's what I did on Sunday.
|Don, Henry, et.al.|
Y'all have your revenge...Winter returned full force last night. Not expected to get out of the mid thirties today!! Rain, though...no ice...yet:)
Thanks for the suggestions.
I worked on my car in the winter in my unheated garage. I got by pretty well with a kerosene torpedo heater. Propane is probably safer and better but I survived. Are you using any kind of heat source?
By the way... I'm glad I'm done with that project. I'm sure I'll end up doing some other major project someday.
|HP Henry Patterson|
No heat source yet, just the smell of burning primer when I am plug welding the pannels together. You are right, if I am going to continue, I need to get a heater. I haven't used kero since I left northwestern PA and I thought they took those heaters off the market. I almost set the house on fire when I left a grilled cheese sandwich on top of the heater too long.
|Tom ,get one like mine|
This thread was discussed between 14/01/2007 and 17/01/2007
Triumph TR6 index