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Triumph TR6 - Differential Rebuild
|I need to replace the 3 oil seals in my differential unit. Assuming I can drop the unit from the car without hurting myself, is it possible for a DIYer to replace the seals without messing up things like float and clearance? Other than the oil leaks, the unit runs quiet and I have no other indication that a complete rebuild is needed. Your experiences please. Thanks!|
I just my diff back in last weekend after replacing the seals. First, don't touch the front seal. Everyone I spoke with about this, including the tech guy at Roadster Factory, told me that the front pinion/flange is torqued to a set amount at the factory. In regards to the two sides, undo the four bolts that hold the side flanges and the inner axles slide right out. You will need to take these to a machine shop to have the flange token off to replace the seals (the shaft is tapered)and retorque the flange back on (I paid $30 for this). Other than that, I would just replace the oil and not do anything else. The biggest hassle is getting the diff out because the exhaust pipe is in the way. I ended up cutting the pipe as far back as I could with a sawzall and reattaching with connecting pipe. While you at it, check your front mounts (especially the right front-passenger side)for any cracks. Mine had one going right across the middle. I bought the reinforcing plates from RF ($44) and had a mobile welder come out and attach them ($130). Whew! all I wanted to do was replace a $5 seal
|Rick-Michael brought out a good point. Early 6's used a solid spacer on the pinion, which is identified by a cotter pin hole and castellated nut. These can be be loosened and re tightened with out a problem. Later 6's used a collaspsible spacer and a nyloc nut. If type is supposed to be replaced when ever the pinion nut is removed. Unfortunately, this requires dismantling the diff. Some people get away without replacing the spacer, but if the old one is over torqued, the pinion preload will be excessive, and cause bearing meltdown. I remember this warning was in the old grey TRF TR6 catalog. If you are lucky, you will the old type diff. My '71 (cc 63230), still has it. Other than that the seal replacement isn't too difficult.|
|Thanks for the great info Mike and Berry. Was there a specific commission or month/year that the switch to a collapsible spacer was made? If, as you suggest, I leave the pinion leaker alone, can I remove the output axle flanges without dropping the diff unit? Thanks again.|
|Rick-According to TRF the change took place in mid '72.Moss says CC61570, which doesn't jive with my car. If you have the later type spacer, by marking the position of the nut on the shaft, it might be possible to reuse the old spacer. When re-tightening the nut, be sure not to go beyond the mark. I am not sure if there is enough room to remove the axle shafts with the diff in place.|
I replaced all three seals you mentioned last fall on my '75 TR6, I was able to remove and install the diff in my garage by myself. I undid my Monza exhaust and was able to JUST squeeze it out.The two side seals were easy to do but I had a mechanic friend help me replace the front pinion seal ( tricky to get out and install) but he made it look easy. It is probably your pinion seal and not the tail bearing seal in the front of the diff that is leaking (page 142 of the Haynes manual shows an exploded view). It was well worth it as now the diff is nice and dry.
Chicago Rawhide make the seals which you can buy from any seal/bearing place
CR 15207 for the pinion (1)
CR 16055 for the sides (2)
They are the neoprane type and not leather
Hope this helps
This thread was discussed between 28/03/2002 and 29/03/2002
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