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Triumph TR6 - EGR valve
|I have a 1975 carb version.|
Can anyone tell me if there is any advantage to keeping the EGR assembly on the car (my car is exempt from any pollution certification).
What will I gain or loose by removing this contraption. If I remove it, do I have to any further adjustments/ modifications other then plugging the holes? (I did read somewhere that if I remove it then I should disconnect the vacuum retard on the distributor as it is not necessary then).
Wondered what people's experiences been. I noticed on ebay that many people are selling EGR valves so odivously someone is taking them off while others are installing them
|UK cars were not fitted with EGR valve- the American ( probably Californian) market required them to control emmissions. But adding burnt gas to air/fuel mixture does nothing for performance, and makes a nonsense of any tuning ( gas flowing) etc. With the holes plugged , removing the valve would , I guess, slightly weaken the mixture. But with wear on old carbs I doubt the change would be noticeable. If it gives problems you could always refit the EGR , and we can think again....|
|I removed mine on the '76 TR-6 I have, plugged the holes, and re-tuned the carbs. Everything works fine, so it's not a big deal to do this. By the way, the longer the valve has been in there, the more likely it is to have carboned up to the point that it is always leaking exhaust gas into the intake manifold. This is definitely NOT good for performance, so unless the thing is working properly, and can be kept that way, you are better off without it. That's why I took mine off, especially after looking at the price of a replacement!|
do you still have the vacuum retard unit on your distributor?
Since I removed the EGR valve I noticed that the car consumes more fuel then before.
|Vacuum retard is still hooked up. As I said, I re-tuned the carbs at the same time, as I had re-built them. Fuel consumption is about 26 - 28 MPG on the highway.|
|I thought the purpose of vacuum retard on the dist. was to reduce emissions. |
I was told that there is no need to hook up the vacuum retard (ignoring the emissions issue)
if you remove the rest of the pollution junk. Since my car is still be restored (body off), I haven't had the
chance to try the above. Has anyone experimented with this?
|I haven't tried it without the vacuum hooked up. I do know that it works the way I have it, and that the vacuum retard does affect the timing at idle by 3 or 4 degrees (checked with timing light), so disconnecting it would certainly have some effect on your advance curve, as you would be starting from a different timing point than with it connected. If the retard is working, my suggestion would be to leave well enough alone.|
|I have never seen the vacuum ADVANCE capsule connected to the inlet manifold on a UK car. Its purpose is to advance the ignition timing on tickover or when the throttle is closed on the overrun- when inlet manifold pressure is well below atmospheric- to give longer for the mixture to burn (the mixture is very weak). It will not affect performance if you leave it disconnected.|
|on my EGR Valve I disconnected the pipe to the intake and plugged it and removed all the vacuum tubes. I also modified the distributer to take a vacuum advance. I also milled .1" off the head. With the modifications I have a problem with pinging going up hills. I have been tempted to reinstall the EGRV because of an experiance I had with a Chev 350 in my van. When I first bought it all I had to do was look at a hill and it would ping - badly - really bad -unbelieveably bad. I played with timming, carburator fuel additives ect. Finaly some one said clean the egr valve. Cleaned it and it ran great. As I belive the function of the egrv is to admit burned gas in to the intake to reduce the combustion temp under high load conditions. In my case I may want that to combat the pinging. With a stock low compression engine it probably is not a probablem.|
This thread was discussed between 26/06/2001 and 10/08/2001
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