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Triumph TR6 - electric fan
|To any of you out there who have added an electric fan to your TR...did you keep the rad shroud (air duct) after the modification?...it strikes me that the 16 inch fan pulling 1900 cfm probably doesnt need the shroud to help route air any more and perhaps leaving the shroud off will generate a little more air flow to other areas in the engine bay to help reduce temperatures elsewhere? true/false..way off base?|
(how many weeks until spring?)
I am in the process of installing a pusher 16" BeCool 1300CFM fan to my TR6 and will be leaving the mechanical fan and radiator shroud in place. I feel the radiator shroud "completes" the front of the engine bay and just looks nicer being there. I had to modify the edges of the fan shroud to fit just inside the front of the core. Also had to mount the fan shroud edge all the way to the top of the core lip to clear the lower front frame member just in front of the radiator. Also took a little off the lower leading edge of the plastic shroud so as not to touch the frame member as good measure.
You have a higher amperage and CFM output fan than I have, but you will likely be able to get the radiator shroud to fit again. But it may take some work and several test fits. I have not gotten that far yet as I am still trying to decide where to run the wires and mount the adjustable thermostat controller. I am going for the Dan Masters "on-auto" setup from his book to allow me to manually turn it ON when I want to and to also allow the thermostat to turn ON the fan in auto mode.
Are you using a thermostat? If so what type, inline sensor or external probe? I have the probe type that will need to be mounted in the "hot air flow" of the radiator and attached by straps or a bracket to the rear core face. I have not decided where (top, middle, bottom) on the core to mount it yet.
Good Luck with your Cooling Adventures!
MRankin 1971 TR6 CC61212L
The advantages of using an electric fan is that it can be operated / switched (e.g. thermostat control) on to draw power only when needed. Many years ago when racing a Spridget (Sprite/Midget) did not use any fan at all, as there was sufficient air flow to cool when the car was moving.
Similarly, I think you will find that the electric fan is not required while the car is moving on the open road, but may be required only on hot days in stop and go traffic.
I think the rad shroud would help direct the air to where it is needed (through the rad, rather than around it), and reduce the fan requirement.
As to other air flow into the engine compartment, I think other than feeding air into the engine, that it is counterproductive and may increase drag. Take a look at today's fuel-effecient cars, and you will see the effective front air openings are small.
If you are looking for more air to the engine, then suggest you address that requirement more directly through how and where (e.g. cool air) your engine air intake picks up air.
|Leonard G Middleton|
|Bob - I agree entirely with Len's comments and I also went with Dan Master's recommendations (over 6 years ago now). - I installed a 16" Jegs puller fan to replace the belt driven original. Fantastic... easy-fit without disturbing the rad core and just enough clearance to the engine front pulley.|
Good points...far less noise from the engine bay and a theoretical (but not really noticeable) increase in power (as the engine has to do less work). Bad points...only one..if you lose the fan/electrical circuit, you have no cooling.
This is not a big issue for me and as Len says, the fan is not needed when the car is moving. The only incident was once when dyno testing and the car was stationary but revving to the max. The 8 amp draw on the (cheap) inline fuse caused the plastic casing to melt and somehow it lost continuity in the circuit. Next thing, there was a fountain of coolant coming out of the overflow bottle - messy but not a tragedy. (Note - do not use cheap holder!)
We often have over 40°C days here in summer and while I have only been out a few times in that sort of stupid heat, it has not been a problem. Generally, the fan only cuts in in slow traffic, when stationary for a while or after a good thrashing.
I strongly suggest having a brass female thread brazed into the bottom rear of the tank (opposite side to
the inlet hose) to accept a decent thermostat switch. I use a Nissan (89°C on/ 82°C off) but you can choose a range of temps from a variety of suppliers. Your local radiator shop should have the thread and can put it in for you.
Regards to those of you with earmuffs and gloves on... it won't be that long now.....
This thread was discussed between 07/01/2006 and 08/01/2006
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